What price?
Hey Guys and Girls,
I have the option to purchase a 2008 D3 TDV6 with 370,000 k's on the clocks. The car is a farm car, full of left over hay and fantastic farm smells and is being sold without a full service history.
Now I understand buyer beware but at the same time I also can't help but think that if its made it this far surely anything that could have gone wrong has, and that if its still running then if I put the money I save on the purchase into a full service and fluids etc then am I anymore at risk then buying a low k's car that has not had any issues arise yet?
I am mainly drawn to the car due to the options, rear AC and sat nav etc that you do not always find on the SE and I am fairly handy with a spanner and do work on my own cars.
I am wondering if anyone here runs a high K's D3 or 4 at all and how they have found it.
Is my logic flawed? (I am sure it is) can anyone politley show me why I am going about this all wrong?
Thanks in advance and also thanks for having such a fantastic resource for people who are looking for information on these cars.
What price?
Rod
D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel
MJR, you have to assess potential gain against potential loss. In other words, are you happy to potentially completely lose the buy price (which presumably will be quite low) on the potential gain that you may have stumbled across a bargain?
If the car is a complete loss in, say, a few weeks after you buy it, will you simply laugh it off as a losing bet and never regret taking the chance? If so, and a few things on the car check out, then go for it. But if you will be devastated at losing a years savings or foregoing that family holiday or whatever (called the opportunity cost), then perhaps let someone else take the gamble.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
With those kms you may find the regular killers of many of the TDV6 might not be a factor, but your going to be entering a realm of different high milage wear and tear items which will require maintenance and replacement. The problem with a cheap car is that when it needs $3,000.00 of work you get upset that it's more than half of the cost of the car that needs to be further spent on it - not a reason to avoid it, you just need to go in with your eyes open, realise that these vehicles have maintenance requirements and those cost. The fact that you purchased the car initially for cheap will not mean anything to maintenance costs being any cheaper - the parts costs will be the same as if you bought the $15,000.00 one.
Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Dads - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Sister-in-laws - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8
My my thoughts were along the lines that if it hadn’t killed the car yet the money saved might go towards preventative servicing vs paying $15k and still running the risk of a gearbox or engine issue on a lower K car. I would rather walk away from $5k then have $15k needing something major.
i don’t believe in unicorns but just wondering if the higher K’s means the usual suspects are non issues and I can just work on prevention moving forward.
I also hear the point about buying cheap and then not wanting to pay $1,100 for a service etc and the cheap entry vs cost to maintain is the downfall of many European cars when they hit that 10 year mark.
thanks for the replies, food for thought
At least if you spend 10k on this car you know what's fixed. Spending 15k on a "better" example may still mean you need to spend more to fix things.
My biggest worry for D3 or 4 of any age is the engine and transmission. Most other things can be replaced for a reasonable cost.
If it were me and the car drove well i would take the chance for $5k. I think youd be up for a full service and maybe new suspension bushes which, if you're handy with the spanners might be an additional 1k plus time.
If you havent driven one before, maybe take a newer example for a drive to compare.
I hope you get it as im keen to see what 5k of D3 looks like!
FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(
Thats basically what I was doing to rationalise the purchase, assuming the engine and gear box have gone this long then if I put even $5,000 back into it I know exactly what is fixed and working and if it all goes wrong its easier to walk away from.
I will keep you updated I am going for another look tomorrow.
I bought a 07 rrs tdv6 for 10k only months ago and am up to 15k already belts,injectors,front diff etc.
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks