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I totally agree
The JLR BMS and limited engine bay space is a hateful compromise of fuel efficiency over touring functionality
JLR know their market though - It is you mob who choose yummy mummy SUVs for touring that can suck the consequences as far as JLR are concerned !!!!
S
Let me re-write that S - Some who "hate" on Rod's solution (which I quite like as its a good read and offers real world results without being overly theoretical) are going to continue to fire-hose his comments and test method. That attitude particularly ****s me to tears. I hope this thread can continue with ongoing feedback on how Rod's system is coping in the future. I am sure there are lots of punters out there who want to pull the same trigger as Rod have. Looking forward to future feedback.
Cheers and keep up the good work - Matti
Hi folks and I think you are all missing the point here.
The OP originally stated he was only getting a nights run out of his Traxide system, and I wrongly assumed this was because he was running his system in IGNITION/STORAGE Mode, which would have caused the short run times he was getting.
He has just posted up that he was running his system as it was designed to be run.
If this is the case, then as he should have easily been getting up to 3 days run time, as he was only getting an over night run time, he didn't just have a problem, he had a MAJOR problem.
Now surely both logic and pure simple commonsense would dictate that you sort out the problem, especially one of this major proportion, before moving on.
The OP made it quite clear he was not interested in sorting the original problem, no matter how bad it was.
As this problem could have be caused by something as simple as a bad connection somewhere in the existing system, or at the other end of the spectrum, it could be something as serious as a stuffed alternator. Again, commonsense would dictate that you sort out the problem first.
The OP then goes on about his Lithium install, and I like reading these sorts of threads, as I regularly learn from them, and did not knock his installation, I corrected his erroneous “advice”
This crap that you can use thinner cable is nothing more than advertising B/S. It was used to make out you could compensate for the higher cost of a DC/DC device by saving money and using thinner cable.
Yes you could use thinner cabling, but by doing so you increased the amount of energy you needed to run your DC/DC device. You literally made an inefficient device even more inefficient.
In all fairness, while the average vehicle had constant alternator voltage operations, the only real issue was that you simply wasted energy.
The problem with this type of advertising crap is that when you have a variable voltage type operation, which the OP’s vehicle has, using thinner cable causes problems.
Most of the reputable DC/DC suppliers now SPECIFICALLY state that you MUST use thicker cable. The problem is, and this is where the OP has fallen into the advertising trap, the DC/DC suppliers don’t go into the reasons for having to using thicker cable.
Most good quality DC/DC devices are now designed to run in vehicles with variable voltage type operations. They are designed to adjust the output current based on the input voltage.
If the input voltage drops to low, the output battery charging current is reduced, which means you will need to drive even longer to try to recharge low batteries.
To reduce the effects of low voltage alternator operations, the DC/DC suppliers now recommend you use much thicker cabling, as this will help to reduce the some of voltage drop at the input of their devices.
There were a number of other errors I corrected, and the point of my replies was not about criticising what he was installing, but about how he was doing it, and as has also been pointed out, others are reading these threads and need to be made aware of the OP’s errors so they don’t make the same mistakes.
Tim
We would have to get Rods input
But From the three threads my impression is that his primary goal is actually
To have ~3 days runtime with NO draw off the main battery
Any specific fault with his particular Traxise install still won’t change that general point
Now I tend to agree that if you want a standalone fridge system just build one
Particular with the ****y pants BMS of a newer alternator
Chances are a DCDC setup won’t be as efficient at charging his system
When compared to a Traxise or pure solar BUT
If Rod is happy and gets his three days of cold beer
Cest la Vie
As Elsa would say, let it go , he is not interested in a Traxise optima combo!
S
You just don’t get it, this not about my DBS, some other brand of DBS, or no DBS at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
It is about sorting out what could be a HUGE problem in his vehicle.
Bad alternator
Bad Connections
Bad Traxide
Pick your poison
At least he has removed one of the variables !!!
S
Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
I get what you ALL are saying in the 2 related threads. I also tend to agree with Tim that some are not listening to each other and are talking on different planes/aspects.
I'm old fashioned in the sense that I would hate to leave the charging problem that the OP has just sitting there without at least identifying and preferably fixing it - who knows what underlying problems could be festering under there.
Even though he is impossible to get hold of some times, Tim has been a long term commenter on here and has supported and done well by any number of members, including me. I guess you could draw some sort of comparison with Colin at BBS - definitely prefer to have them both on board.
How does that (mis)quote go - I may disagree with what you say, but will fight to the death for your right to say it.
Can I now respectfully suggest that all opinions have been well expressed and we can get on with the future? (I too will be interested in any new knowledge arising).
In reading the other thread you drop TRAXIDE pretty often and you make reference either products or installation as inferior.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
It’s looks a little like your ****ed the the OP has opted for a different system.
Yep still waiting on my enquiry about lithium batteries......from a week or so ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinwibrow
As a scientist I get where Drivesafe is coming from. I see a lot of myths/untested theories. Someone’s told someone that you must do this or can’t do that. Often this comes from a single failed experiment. They change something and it works. Therefore the change they made was the reason for success when actually they made a mistake with the initial experiment and if they had repeated it, it would have worked.
You are finding that your DBS (say combined 180AH) isn’t giving the performance expected. Therefore you decide the battery capacity isn’t enough. So you install a 100AH lithium. You get better performance than the DBS. Therefore an 100AH lithium is better than the 180AH lead acid DBS when actually there was problem with to DBS system so you were not getting maximum performance.
I have a lithium aux. system. I had read the advertising info. A 100AH lithium battery will give you the same performance as a 300AH lead acid. I read some of Drivesafe’s posts about lithium vs lead acid and realised that 100AH lithium was not going to give me the performance I was expecting. So I ended up with 2x100AH lithiums.
How are they going? They are doing the job. Haven’t had the need to discharge them very low so I can’t comment on charging speed. I have a 50A DCDC charger to minimise charging time and also a 240v lithium charger to make sure they are fully charged before leaving on a trip. Some of this is from info from Drivesafe’s posts.
It’s not great after spending considerable money and time to be told that maybe you are not going to get the performance you think you will or that time and money was not needed as there was a fault in the original system.
As someone who has a lot of knowledge in these maters, take Drivesafe’s advice. File it away. If you do have problems with the setup, then the answer may be there.