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Thread: Question on Traxide Dual Battery setup

  1. #1
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    Question on Traxide Dual Battery setup

    I have an Traxide dual installed. It was installed in 2014, so I reckon I would have an older sc80, not sure how to tell

    Any way I have been thinking of putting in a switch to turn off the sc80 as I have battery drain, can’t leave the car more than a 4 days.

    According to Tim and others in the forum you can put a switch on the yellow green wire.

    I don’t seem to have one?

    Any thoughts

    Richard

  2. #2
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    A bit more info

    it is an SC80-12 isolator. it was part of the D4-5S Traxide kit. It was installed by Sneigy.

    I do not have a yellow green wire but do have a brown wire running from the bottom of the SC80 to the earth point on the car. This wire is very difficult to get at. Even though brown the diagram refers to it a the green earth wire??

    I found the install instructions and there was no mention of a yellow green wire.

    Richard

    D4 Kit-5S.png

  3. #3
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    Same wire.

  4. #4
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    4 days is pretty short timeframe.

    What’s changed?

    How old is primary battery?
    How old is secondary?
    What hangs (powers) off of it all the time? USB sockets are always drawing current if powered.

    How far is it being driven?

    My vehicle could sit 2-4 weeks without going below the ability to start.

  5. #5
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    Tombie
    Thanks for the reply
    Main battery is a bit over 12 months
    The aux was 6 years and stuffed, I had it replaced yesterday.

    I have had this problem for a long time and even though I have replaced the aux yesterday I am not confident it will solve problem. Time will tell

    The reason I have raised the thread is that I have booked the car in to auto elecy to check it out subject to the new aux not fixing the problem
    While doing that I was going to get a switch installed hence my original question.

    As for what is connected I have been making a list

    1. Traxide Dual battery
    2. There is some unit installed in driver side engine bay under black cover, not sure what that is?
    3. Anti rust , removed or should be
    4. Redarc battery monitor sensors, one on each battery
    5. Tyre monitor - via plug into aux battery
    6. Heated seats after market install
    7. Break controller for towing
    8. 12 pin tow plug
    9. Uhf radio
    10. A module to cater for led lights in van- Installed in passenger side back compartment

    The car does sit around a fair bit

    I regularly put it on charge, when I am away I have the charger set to run 3 days a week

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbowner View Post
    Tombie
    Thanks for the reply
    Main battery is a bit over 12 months
    The aux was 6 years and stuffed, I had it replaced yesterday.

    I have had this problem for a long time and even though I have replaced the aux yesterday I am not confident it will solve problem. Time will tell

    The reason I have raised the thread is that I have booked the car in to auto elecy to check it out subject to the new aux not fixing the problem
    While doing that I was going to get a switch installed hence my original question.

    As for what is connected I have been making a list

    1. Traxide Dual battery
    2. There is some unit installed in driver side engine bay under black cover, not sure what that is?
    3. Anti rust , removed or should be
    4. Redarc battery monitor sensors, one on each battery
    5. Tyre monitor - via plug into aux battery
    6. Heated seats after market install
    7. Break controller for towing
    8. 12 pin tow plug
    9. Uhf radio
    10. A module to cater for led lights in van- Installed in passenger side back compartment

    The car does sit around a fair bit

    I regularly put it on charge, when I am away I have the charger set to run 3 days a week

    I have disconnected as much as I can above and will go for a drive and see how battery holds up.

    Richard

  7. #7
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    Bin the anti-rust thing for a start! Put it in the cupboard with your Brockie crystals.
    I’m with Tombie. That’s ridiculous length of time for idle time battery life. You need to go through it and find what the drain is.
    I recently bought an ammeter that had inductive capability so I can simply clip it over a wire and see the current, rather than needing to get in-line with it. Much easier to test current flow (just remember if you do this you can only do the positive or negative - not both wires else the positive flow is cancelled by the negative).

    Go around the devices one by one and check their idle usage. Anything over 30ma is problematic and with so many thing, that’s potentially even at 30ma per device, a lot of parasitic current draw.

    Finally there is a cut off relay that fails that causes excessive drain. Have you checked the ECU codes recently for a fault? That relay failing is logged IIRC.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Bin the anti-rust thing for a start! Put it in the cupboard with your Brockie crystals.
    I’m with Tombie. That’s ridiculous length of time for idle time battery life. You need to go through it and find what the drain is.
    I recently bought an ammeter that had inductive capability so I can simply clip it over a wire and see the current, rather than needing to get in-line with it. Much easier to test current flow (just remember if you do this you can only do the positive or negative - not both wires else the positive flow is cancelled by the negative).

    Go around the devices one by one and check their idle usage. Anything over 30ma is problematic and with so many thing, that’s potentially even at 30ma per device, a lot of parasitic current draw.

    Finally there is a cut off relay that fails that causes excessive drain. Have you checked the ECU codes recently for a fault? That relay failing is logged IIRC.
    Would be interested in the ammeter you bought if ya can.

    Agree with above.

    The anti rust was a BIG mistake and I had it removed some time ago. I was going to the dealer then for service and no questions asked and even gave me back a $300 credit which I could not use unfortunately.

    Most of the things connected are supposed to turn off or are supposed to have minimal drain - bet ya heard that one before.

    As mentioned I have disconnected most of the above, stuff I can at least, and will see how the new AUX goes.

    One thing I can't disconnect easily is the Traxide isolator, hence my question about the switch. Good to monitor batteries independently.

    Your point about the relays is a good one as I have had to have one replaced a year or so ago for the brake controller. I also think the relay may not be a big as required, from memory it is a 20amp one but think it should be 30amp. But I know bugger all about this stuff so can't say for sure.
    I have a Tekonsha P3 controller installed which I have disconnected for my latest test.

    Richard

  9. #9
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    Hi Richard, and is your auxiliary battery in the driver’s side battery box.

    Sneigy was very good at fitting them there.

    If it is, then the isolator is there as well and you will have a thin brown wire, running from the isolator over to a top-hat shaped nut on the inside of the inner guard.

    It may be difficult to get at, but if you can, see if you can get easy access to the brown wire somewhere between the two locations.

    I have quite a few thousands of these Land Rover kits, with the original SC80 isolators and as covered in a few places, by cutting this wire and inserting a switch, you can turn the SC80 off while the vehicle is left unused for long periods.

    If you want to automate the operation, you can fit the switch and a small relay in parallel, like a horn relay, and have the relay bypass the switch when ever you run your motor.

    The relay setup gets around having to remember about the switch, plus you can leave the switch off until you do your next long trip, but relay allows the auxiliary battery to be charged when ever the motor is running.

  10. #10
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    Tjm
    Aux battery and isolator are on passenger side
    I think he tried other side but had problems



    Richard

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