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Thread: 2006 d3 hse 4.4 v8 service,fluids,parts, service and tech advise

  1. #1
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    2006 d3 hse 4.4 v8 service,fluids,parts, service and tech advise

    hi all, I apologise for this very long post in advance!! sorry. i may me putting this in the wrong place so please correct me if it shouldnt be here! i am new to AULRO so please bare with me!. i have just bought a 06 d3 hse v8 4.4lt which i am LOVING!, maybe still on the honeymoon period but still very exited none the less. i have never owned any 4b thats not jap and i like to research the bageeses out of everything so i have already come across lots of great info from this aulro community, thanks to all of you!. now im not finding too much specifically for the v8, I paid $10 500 for the vehicle with 226k klm which I think is not a bad price, knowing that I will need to do some front suspension bushings or wishbone due to them wearing as described in a few post on here. im happy to spend a couple k to get the disco in good shape so I can keep it in good shape so I have done the plugs and engine oil, air and oil filter. its the first thing I do to any vehicle and it was over due by 450klm according to the dash. I have found a few things under the hood that makes me question the competence of LR technician at the previous owners local LR workshop, I found a couple of stripped screws in the airbox which could be a big deal long term, and lots of small things like hoses not clipped back into place and covers not fixed down properly, most not a risk of expensive outcome, but laziness or Friday arvo rush service kinda faults. I want to change every fluid, grease every nipple and adjust anything adjustable back to within specs! this will be my pride and joy for years to come so I want to make it good and reliable. so im asking what are good quality fluids the correct grades or if not factory recommended then alternatives that will better protect the vehicle for as long as possible, and also what you as LR owners recommend intervals for these different service items, im happy to over service to guarantee longevity but without getting crazy!. I am based in the sunshine coast area and would like to know what auto parts places are cheapest for most of the service stuff, and where to buy (mainly aftermarket) suspension, chasis and body parts at the best prices, I realise sometimes its best to go genuine but I will be trying to stay away from that place if its safe to do so because $80+ to replace a number plate light globe and $900+ to replace brake pads does not sit well with me!. so 90% of the work I will be doing myself, I have the tools and the knowledge and experience to rebuild motors , change suspension etc, so the work does not scare me, although I am happy to ask and take advise if im not sure or am way off. I would never just have a go at it without being sure and speaking to the more experienced first!

    things I will need to get now to get it to a stage that I can pick away at neatening up the rest --

    -front suspension bushings, ball joints etc (has rattle/clunk etc when going over jittery bumps and when hitting the brake pedal suddenly) if it works out cheaper ill change wishbones complete- been looking at some from uk around $500-$600 for complete set of 4 for the front, think its called I M Axles the company, they seem to have sold lots with good feedback, has anyone here bought from them?

    -all terrain tyres (19inch) it has 275/55/19 , these are highway treads that look like they should be on a BMW sports car, look great and handle great but I can only think how much they are loading up the bushes etc, so im going to "keep it simple stupid" and go with the factory size 255/55/19. I want to do beach driving and bush camping, only mild off road nothing intense I have dirt bikes for that!. also ill be towing a camper so I want something reasonable quality, ive had bf a/t's but not available for 19" rim and apparently 18s wont fit over the v8s brakes and 20s I think are getting to low profile.

    -front diff oil
    -rear diff oil
    -transmission fluid and filter pan (probably go with the plastic one) and will be doing the full 10 or so litre change not just the few litres in the pan
    -transfer case fluid
    -front and rear brake pads
    -front rotors (has a pulse under braking, not sure if they can be machined or is it likely warped and in need of replacement- experience please?
    - E brake shoes, and is there any other components in there that should be replaced or is it just the recommended lubricating components so it operates freely? (it is working fine atm id like to keep it like that)
    - LR hook style tow hitch, it has a hayman reece type attachment but I comes out the bottom of the bumper bar forward under the car a bit and is way too low, I don't want to fit one between the tow sockets as I want to keep the recovery ring. also the key is missing to unlock the LR lock pin is LR going to make me take a second mortgage for this or can a locksmith sort it, or maybe a grinder??
    id like to also--

    -mild lift, should this be done with the rods to the sensors or is there some kinda spacers for above the airbags? recommendations? happy with the ride just after couple inches

    -better throttle response from the fly by wire, the throttle is very doughy until the revs get to about 3000, kinda dangerous halfway through an intersection and ya need to go, otherwise I gotta put my foot down till the pedal clicks and then it kicks down to 1st gear and gives a big harsh wack in the diff right before it launches into outa space. which isn't pleasant unless your on a drag strip. maybe something going on somewhere else but I put my foot down a little and it takes literally 2.5 seconds for the engine to respond and still sounds like its labouring at 2500rpm. once it gets going its a beast, pretty happy the new 5.0 mustang this morning had to work hard to get away. I think he was embarrassed!

    - factory LR bull bar second hand if I can find one, I like the look of them and don't really want a full blown bull bar like the ARB ones, I seems there's not much to choose from in bull bars but I may not have a choice. I don't like the small nudge bars. may have to go custom but im worried about the airbag compatibility



    and if there's anything else that im missing please chime in, I don't expect everyone to respond to everything on this post in every msg but if you could give advise for the essentials and pick away at the rest would be greatly appreciated, and hopefully this thread can stay here to help more owners, hopefully with some more mechanical/maintenance/issues related around the v8

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is online now Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
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    May I suggest you throw in a few "carriage returns/line feeds" to break up that huge expanse of text which makes one NOT want to read it.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2004 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Apart from your post being impossible to read as above, what do you mean by a mild lift? The D3 raises 50mm if you hit the up button when off road, which is the 2 inches you need.

    You don't need a permanent lift on these cars.

    My son's D3 V8 has instant go off the mark and then tapers off until the revs rise to where the power band is. It would never drag off anything, though, let alone a Mustang. My Discovery Sport can beat it and the D4 diesel and Range Rover Vogue 3 litre diesels kill it. However, all of those have a lot of lag off a standing start, which the V8 D3 does not have. The V8 therefore initially jumps ahead until the others get going on their turbos. The D3 is better once the revs are up around 4000 to 6000, though.
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2013 Range Rover Vogue TDV6
    2017 Disco Sport SE 132kW Ingenium

  4. #4
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    Most of the how-to videos for all common jobs on the engine, diffs and control arms are on YouTube for these and all service jobs. There are many. The V8 engine dominates the USA videos.

    Find yourself Bodsyís Brake Bible and download on the UK Disco3 site is the comprehensive brake guide. Learn how to care for the park brake adjustment especially.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys i will try edit the post to make it a bit easier to read, in regards to a little more power i think the problem is it wants to ride a gear high so it labours a lot in second, if i put the go pedal all the way down it changes back to first and boogies but the change is very agressive and im worried about damaging the diff and gearbox, if it had a little more power to ride second out it would be perfect, i just dont want to have to flog it every time i need to get through an intersection. Unless the gearbox can be programed to shift at half throttle so its not so agressive that would be ideal. I will do the park brake maintenance soon as a preventative maintenance, thanks for the tip on the vids. So im gathering the v8 is a pretty reliable problem free motor if taken care of, apart from what ive read about the injectors being prone yo clogging?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poolguymark View Post
    Thanks guys i will try edit the post to make it a bit easier to read, in regards to a little more power i think the problem is it wants to ride a gear high so it labours a lot in second, if i put the go pedal all the way down it changes back to first and boogies but the change is very agressive and im worried about damaging the diff and gearbox, if it had a little more power to ride second out it would be perfect, i just dont want to have to flog it every time i need to get through an intersection. Unless the gearbox can be programed to shift at half throttle so its not so agressive that would be ideal. I will do the park brake maintenance soon as a preventative maintenance, thanks for the tip on the vids. So im gathering the v8 is a pretty reliable problem free motor if taken care of, apart from what ive read about the injectors being prone yo clogging?
    Try an I-drive throttle controller.
    Had one fitted recently to my MY13 D4 TDV6 3.0 diesel and the difference in accelerating from standstill is extraordinary.
    Completely adjustable to set response and how much lag you want taken out.
    I initially set it on 'auto' so it reads how you are driving and sets itself accordingly, but it was a mite too savage for me. So have now settled on "eco" mode position #6 (there are 9 positions) and am very happy with the response. I might try Pos #7 soon, takes about 1 second to change!
    All the "doughiness" and lag has gone and the engine responds brilliantly.
    Was recommended to me about 18 mnths ago by a D3 owner I'd met at the Yungaburra C/park (Atherton Tablelands, Qld) and he couldn't speak highly enough of it but I have only just got around to doing it.
    Shoulda done it sooner!
    Very noticeable and particularly nice when towing my 3.0 Tonne caravan.
    The I-drive is superior to the el cheapo versions as it gives more adjustments.
    Buy direct from I-drive, they are brilliant people to deal with and you'll get discount.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poolguymark View Post
    Thanks guys i will try edit the post to make it a bit easier to read, in regards to a little more power i think the problem is it wants to ride a gear high so it labours a lot in second, if i put the go pedal all the way down it changes back to first and boogies but the change is very agressive and im worried about damaging the diff and gearbox, if it had a little more power to ride second out it would be perfect, i just dont want to have to flog it every time i need to get through an intersection. Unless the gearbox can be programed to shift at half throttle so its not so agressive that would be ideal. I will do the park brake maintenance soon as a preventative maintenance, thanks for the tip on the vids. So im gathering the v8 is a pretty reliable problem free motor if taken care of, apart from what ive read about the injectors being prone yo clogging?
    If you drive it in sport mode it holds the gears longer and getts over that patch quite well.

    What your describing is when its in normal D, it likes to upshift early.

    Sport mode will fix that hole just right.

  8. #8
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    Sep 2014
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    Baldivis WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poolguymark View Post
    Thanks guys i will try edit the post to make it a bit easier to read, in regards to a little more power i think the problem is it wants to ride a gear high so it labours a lot in second, if i put the go pedal all the way down it changes back to first and boogies but the change is very agressive and im worried about damaging the diff and gearbox, if it had a little more power to ride second out it would be perfect, i just dont want to have to flog it every time i need to get through an intersection. Unless the gearbox can be programed to shift at half throttle so its not so agressive that would be ideal. I will do the park brake maintenance soon as a preventative maintenance, thanks for the tip on the vids. So im gathering the v8 is a pretty reliable problem free motor if taken care of, apart from what ive read about the injectors being prone yo clogging?
    Assuming youíve got the auto gearbox Iíd be rebuilding the valve body if itís not shifting right. 95% of shift problems are the valve body, solenoids, valve body to torque converter seals and a mechatronic with lots of bad adaptations in it to compensate for it. Plus all the usual maintenance stuff. Also check the prop shafts and transfer case seals, constant 4WD means these are prone to unbalance, especially if itís done some decent off reading. Unbalanced prop shafts can lead to vibration and bad shifts too.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty05 View Post
    If you drive it in sport mode it holds the gears longer and getts over that patch quite well.

    What your describing is when its in normal D, it likes to upshift early.

    Sport mode will fix that hole just right.
    I was doin it in sport mode aswell, i just did tranny service this week, after a bit of heart ache and a broken pick up tube upon dissasembly, i took the ryco kit back to bursons and bought the 3 peice replacement kit with the pick up seperate to the pan. So much easier, full fluid flush. Now it is so much smoother and sport mode is much better for the 2nd back to first gear change! Still a little agressive but much better. Ill do another fluid flush in 1000klms. Also im going to get the I Drive unit to sort out the doey throttle response issue with the fly by wire. Think it will be sorted then!

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Perth- South of the River
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poolguymark View Post
    after a bit of heart ache and a broken pick up tube upon dissasembly, i took the ryco kit back to bursons and bought the 3 peice replacement kit with the pick up seperate to the pan.
    The broken 'pick up' (which is the integrated filter) is normal/necessary when removing the original pan. With the aftermarket pan and separate filter so much easier for future.

    Out of interest which brand fluid did you use?
    BR David

    Gone: 05 D3 TDV6 ARB Front Kaymar Rear- Dual Wheel; Winch; E-Diff; LRA Tank; Dual Battery; 6 x Steelies BF KM2s
    Current: 2015 SDV6 SE. Corris Grey; Black Pack; Redarc Tow Pro; Mitch Hitch; Llams

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