D3 wont start - Possible Immobilizer issue

If you can lock/unlock with the fob and the central locking reacts to it the problem is with the transponder coil's circuit as the remobilisation signal is not generated, check fuse 40P in the CJB maybe you are lucky, read the attachment to understand how it works

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

If you can lock/unlock with the fob and the central locking reacts to it the problem is with the transponder coil's circuit as the remobilisation signal is not generated, check fuse 40P in the CJB maybe you are lucky, read the attachment to understand how it works

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Hey Fery - isn’t it time you got yourself a TDV6 D3 as a nice little project on the side. We could do with your electronic wizardry to help solve the D3’s electrical gremlins. [emoji3]

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Originally Posted by 101RRS

Has that been keyed (coded) to the car? To me that is the obvious fault - the car is not registering the key fob signal and keeping the immobilizer on.

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I think you may be onto it Garry , I remember doing the exact same thing when I bought a replacement key and fob , even after playing with Nanocom to program the new key I managed to un-program my spare key and the same symptoms as described by the OP when I tried it . I never tried to open the car s it was already unlocked so I am not sure if that side of the alarm system works when the key wont but I think it does.... very happy to be corrected on that.

Bulletman

While we talking about coding the key - it is actually the opposite as the car is coded to the key chip - the little chip in the fob is like a dog identity chip and the reader is in the steering column (note this is not the door locking/system which is different again).

The chip has a unique code and the car systems need to be programmed to detect it when the key is in the ignition. Tools like the gap tool can do this.

If the OP just got a new key fob, the door opening system may be working but the car may not have been coded to receive the immobiliser chip signal so is remaining immobilised.

I dont believe in coincidences - new fob and now the immobiliser is not switching off - the link is there and the first place to look.

Garry

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Originally Posted by 101RRS

Just touching them momentarily is enough to drain any stored voltages after the car has been turned off.

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I understand that a short period should be plenty, but .... we had a D4 stuck in the mountains above Moe for 36 hours, that wouldn't recognise its key fob. I am sure they tried shorter periods but it did finally recognise the key fob after an hour of no power.

Ian
Bittern

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Originally Posted by ian4002000

I understand that a short period should be plenty, but .... we had a D4 stuck in the mountains above Moe for 36 hours, that wouldn't recognise its key fob. I am sure they tried shorter periods but it did finally recognise the key fob after an hour of no power.

Ian
Bittern

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B geez that's a worry..did they find out why it did that??

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Originally Posted by INter674

B geez that's a worry..did they find out why it did that??

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It was a bit busy at the time but a Defender had slipped down a hill and hit the rear of the D4. The D4 was in park and handbrake on at the time.

They were unable to move the D4 until the keyfob would work again.

Some people thought the rear park sensors were damaged but there was no fault found.

It wasn't a good weekend for anybody on that trip.

Ian
Bittern