LR4 Smart Key Not Found, No Power on Centre Console, A/C, Dash, Speedo, Tacho

Thanks for replying, Graeme. I charged my battery with a Ctek 5A charger for a day and it came up to 12.92V. Still no change. I do have another car and jumper leads and I'll try your suggestion later.

I also connected my Bosch C7 battery charger which has a power supply feature to the leads and disconnected the battery (to take it out of the picture, in case it's bad) and still no change.

I also removed the battery from the bay and arranged all wiring, pushing connectors to ensure they firmly connected. The battery has 12V on it, disconnected from the car. I hooked up the battery again. I also found a grounding point in front of the battery with 2 wires on it. I loosened it, cleaned then re-tightened. With fingers crossed, I hopped inside the car only to be frustrated because all of that didn't change anything.

I pulled out both A pillars but did not find any earthing connection there.

I do have a voltmeter. How do I check if it's a positive supply problem or an earth problem on the fuses?

I started the car a few times today placing the smart key in the raised ridges under the steering column with no problem. Engine easily cranks, then starts. The display in the console (with the, LR4 image, coolant temp, fuel gauge, etc.) came back a couple of times so I was happy thinking that it might be the start of something good. But after I stopped the engine and re-start, it's gone again.

I started the car with the key fob under the steering column then I removed Fuse 17 (5A Tan, Keyless entry/start, central door locking) and the central console touchscreen, dash, speedo, tacho and a/c all came back on. The a/c is blowing but the climate control still has no power (no lights. no indication, controls not working).

I measured the voltage in Fuse 17 terminals with the negative lead of the multi-tester on the door bolts for ground. One terminal has 14.25V on it while the other terminal has 1.8V. I measured the other vacant fuse slots and one terminal has 14.25V on it while the other terminal has 0.008V. So something is feeding power to the other side of F17.

I put back the fuse in F17 and the central console touchscreen, dash, speedo, tacho and a/c all tripped again right away. Removing the fuse brings them back again after maybe 2 minutes.

There's definitely a problem with the F17 circuit like it's shorting or grounded. I don't know where to start looking. I read somewhere about a KVM so I'll start Googling.

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “No Brake lts/Hazards etc on Auto H/Lts + Long Hard Reset

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Do you have another vehicle and jumper leads so that you can raise your battery voltage without your engine running to see if the higher voltage makes any difference?

Do you have a volt-meter to check voltages at fuses for the affected components to see if its a positive supply problem or an earth problem?

I suspect a poor earth somewhere, perhaps at one of the earth bolts behind the covers at the base of the A pillars. Those covers are readily removed - pull the door seal away, lift the tread plate, on the driver's side remove the panel above the pedals then slide the panel rearwards.

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I found out that whenever I pull out Fuse 17 (Keyless entry/start, central door locking) in the passenger compartment fuse box, the centre console (touchscreen), A/C (Climate control), dashboard (infocentre), speedometer and tachometer start working again. They turn off again if I put F17 back in.

I checked F17 voltages. There's 14.2V in one terminal and 12.8V in the other. There's no continuity across it.

So that I can use the car with the touchscreen, a/c, dash, instruments working, I did not put back F17 for now. I can start the LR4 with the key fob underneath the steering column then lock it using the key blade in the keyhole in the front passenger side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mungus

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “No Brake lts/Hazards etc on Auto H/Lts + Long Hard Reset

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Thanks, Mungus. Yeah, I've read your post but I have no rear a/c as my LR 4 was built on Oct 2009. I did try tracing wires and checking/tightening grounds/earths. There's a few in the foot well of the front passenger side below the fuse box and I tightened them all to no avail.

I read somewhere that there's an earth point beneath the front cabin lights and even though it's spotless, I still cleaned and re-tightened it, checked the continuity, too, but also didn't do anything.

I wonder what's wrong as the car has been barely used at all. I'd like to solve this myself and I have tried everything I found in the internet but nothing fixed the issue. Looks like I'm on my way to the recommended Indies by fellow forumers here in Perth.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mungus

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “

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Like Mungus said, I had similar issues and the same sort of lost functions. Traced it to a short affecting canbus.

Ted

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tedio

Like Mungus said, I had similar issues and the same sort of lost functions. Traced it to a short affecting canbus.

Ted

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Hi Ted. Where did you find the short?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Do you have another vehicle and jumper leads so that you can raise your battery voltage without your engine running to see if the higher voltage makes any difference?

Do you have a volt-meter to check voltages at fuses for the affected components to see if its a positive supply problem or an earth problem?

I suspect a poor earth somewhere, perhaps at one of the earth bolts behind the covers at the base of the A pillars. Those covers are readily removed - pull the door seal away, lift the tread plate, on the driver's side remove the panel above the pedals then slide the panel rearwards.

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I found out that if I remove fuse F17 (Keyless entry/start, central door locking), then the touchscreen, A/C, dashboard console, speedo & tachometer will start working again. If I put it back in, then they'll turn off again.

The fuse F17 itself is okay. I tested it using a multi-meter. I also measured the voltages in the terminals. One has 14.5V and the other has 12.7V. The terminals have no continuity across.

I wiggled/arranged the wire looms in the battery bay and also in the passenger compartment fuse box. Nothing obvious there. I didn't find any earths in the A pillar. I found a few in the foot well on the front passenger side and cleaned/tightened them. They are all dry as this car has never been off-road or waded through water. I read somewhere that there's an earth beneath the front cabin light so I looked for it. Even though it's spotless, I still cleaned and re-tightened it. All of these to no avail. Every time I chuck in F17, I'll lose the power on the touchscreen, A/C & dashboard console again.

I left F17 out for now so that I can use the car, starting it with the key fob underneath the steering column and when parked, locking it using the key blade.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mungus

I had a very similar issue at 1week old. It was the canbus intermittently shorting to earth below the rear aircon unit. I don’t know how to insert a link to my thread but if you search my posts you will find it. Similar title to yours.
thread title “No Brake lts/Hazards etc on Auto H/Lts + Long Hard Reset

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Thanks, Mungus. Yeah, I've read your post before I started this thread. Only thing is I don't have a rear a/c.

I wanted to solve this problem myself and I hope I can find the fault but I've tried everything that I have Googled and nothing worked. Kudos to AULRO. AULRO has a lot of hits in Google and has tons of useful info. Thanks a lot.

I read somewhere that the Keyless entry Vehicle Module (KVM) might be faulty and I'm already concerned at the repair/replacement costs. I hope it's not the case.

I wish it's just a short circuit somewhere. I've been troubleshooting for the past 3 days and I'll try again tomorrow. if I can't fix it, then I'll be off to the recommended Indies here in Perth by our fellow forumers.

If you know where the keyless entry module is located, with F17 fitted can you unplug its 2 door handle and 2 door lock connectors one at a time trying to determine whether the module or one of the door locks or handles or their wiring is the cause?

Do you have a wiring schematic?