I knew this day would come.
Yesterday - went to accelerate from some lights, nothing. Car literally moved off at 1kph. It eventually started to go and then woke up, but then didn’t feel right. Later, noticed that changes were flaring, noticeable slippage instead of lock up when I know it would normally lock and get a boogie on. Very much not behaving as normal.
No dash errors, nothing logged in IID, including pending.
I do have a Zip kit to put through the valve body, filter, etc and new ZF fluid (20L) for a multi-fluid change so I’ll now do that and see if it helps. Really don’t want to spend $8000 on a rebuild!
274,000km.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Not sure what sort of use the cars had as far as towing and everything but 274000, well I think that's not too bad. Hope your flush fix works out.
I'm getting mine serviced soon at 80K as I do tow a light van. Just a precaution really as it shows no sign of not working correctly....yet.
AlanH.
Did you check the adaptions? If it IS the transmission, I would expect to see a series of incorrect ratio or TC lock faults...
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I tried for some useful live values on the GAP IID today but couldn’t find any I could make use of. I’m not seeing any errors, and I agree, I’d have expected to see something, but maybe I’m overly sensitive and know the car, so maybe I’m sensing the issue before it’s flagging faults. It’s definitely not locking up as I’d expect it - noticing a lot more slushiness.
When you say check the adaptations, do you mean reset them and see if it helps, or check the adaptation stored values?
I’ve got the Sonax Zip kit plus all the other bits required to rebuild the valve body so I think I’ll give it a try. I don’t have new solenoids so I’ll be taking a bit of a punt that they’re ok. I guess if it doesn’t fix it I can pull the valve body again and fit new solenoids. At that point I’ll give up and get it rebuilt.
I just dropped nearly $10k on the engine semi-rebuild body off etc so if I can get the box to last another couple of years before I have to rebuild it, that’d help the finances somewhat.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
I wouldn't touch it until fault codes start being logged because if it doesn't work afterwards then you won't know if the original problem persists or whether you've created another problem. The cross-checking of shaft sensors etc will soon detect any faults.
Are any engine faults being logged?
How is the park brake?
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
Brake light switch? I've been through 3 of them now. Same thing, car won't move. Also if the steering sensor is off. It won't take off from a standstill.
I don't always get the lights on when the brake light switch dies. Mostly not. I noticed at at busy roundabouts most. Then eventually the lights come on
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