6 Speed ATF Temperature Sensor Location?

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

That is interesting. The above extract was the training material from 2004 prior to release, so maybe they revised the software to allow for even higher running temps. Which would be a worry but not surprising when at the time LR also considered it was OK to never need to change the transmission fluid either.

Even the engine runs warmer than I would like, and I would hate to think what EGT the TDV6 generates under high load.

Should be easy to fit an external transmission cooler - it was a common kit for the Falcon’s and the piping changes to 1/2 inch hose just before the radiator. I know most don’t think this is required with the D3/4 but if I was doing a lot of towing I would want to keep oil temps below 100 degC.

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Ta, and I concur - don't like the higher temps at all.
I have an EGT gauge fitted to my 2.7, but can't remember exactly where the sensor is (was done by DazzaTD5, and I think somewhere near the egr gear from memory?), but definitely runs cooler than my previous D2a and I've yet to see over 600C pulling the van, whereas the D2a would want to get above 700 towing the block of flats on a steep hill if I wasn't vigilant. Normal D4 heavy towing on the flat about 500 - 550C.
Coolant temp without towing normally in the order of 90C, and when towing coolant can get a couple of degrees over 100 - and engine oil temp occasionally as high as 135.

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Interesting reading Gavin, you did mention when we spoke thst you wanted an aux cooler as the engine /transmission ran hotter than you believe is cortect. Im sure you will have investigated the obvious re engine in terms of coolant correct SG and coolsnt to demin water ratio etc. I also wonder if theres maybe an airflow restriction to the transmission oil cooler mounted under / in front of the engine..

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Definitely feel a need for some detailed investigations coming on after I get back home next week.[bawl]

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Ta, and I concur - don't like the higher temps at all.
I have an EGT gauge fitted to my 2.7, but can't remember exactly where the sensor is (was done by DazzaTD5, and I think somewhere near the egr gear from memory?), but definitely runs cooler than my previous D2a and I've yet to see over 600C pulling the van, whereas the D2a would want to get above 700 towing the block of flats on a steep hill if I wasn't vigilant. Normal D4 heavy towing on the flat about 500 - 550C.
Coolant temp without towing normally in the order of 90C, and when towing coolant can get a couple of degrees over 100 - and engine oil temp occasionally as high as 135.

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Do you know if your EGT cooler was also removed?

If your EGT cooler has been removed then the probe could be at the back of the manifold where the EGT cooler would normally connect to the manifold. This would give a good reading as it picks up the exhaust outlet direct from 3 cylinders.

But if the probe is after the cooler and fitted where the blanking plates normally go, then it would be reading lower than the real value as the exhaust gas has been cooled at this point.

Would be good to confirm with Dazza where the probe is just so you know it is showing a real value seen by the turbo.

Edit: if you pull the engine cover off, should be easy to spot the EGT probe.

Gavin,

What tyre pressures do you run on the car and van when towing? Has the van had a wheel alignment? Incorrect or uneven pressures and alignment add a truck load of drag, making the engine work even harder.

Just a thought

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Do you know if your EGT cooler was also removed?

If your EGT cooler has been removed then the probe could be at the back of the manifold where the EGT cooler would normally connect to the manifold. This would give a good reading as it picks up the exhaust outlet direct from 3 cylinders.

But if the probe is after the cooler and fitted where the blanking plates normally go, then it would be reading lower than the real value as the exhaust gas has been cooled at this point.

Would be good to confirm with Dazza where the probe is just so you know it is showing a real value seen by the turbo.

Edit: if you pull the engine cover off, should be easy to spot the EGT probe.

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Gavins probe is at the back of the RH manifold , at the outlet to cooler , using a modified D2 EGR blank plate
so yes , getting reading from 3 cylinders.

The LH manifold doesn't have enough clearance for a probe due to the turbo

Cooler is still in place

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Partially correct - I did get one gearbox warning which I think drops the trans into 4th/5th as the revs go up. Stopped car, turn off ignition, restart, all good. I did note that before I stopped, the revs would drop to idle on a trailing throttle at speed on a downhill slope.

I had a couple of similar earlier warnings on the Qld trip whilst leaving the car in cruise up slight inclines - yes I should have known better, but did some long slow days on pretty flat ground out west. I reported them on here at the time, but got very little if any response as I recall.

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Hey mate, in the case of an over heat, the best thing to do is knock it back a few and put the revs through the roof, that gives lower engine requirement, max water pump and engine fan speed. Plus the torque converter even without lockup is virtually locked and stops generating heat, it also is pumping more through the cooler..

This method only works if you don't have a blown hose or other mechanical issue.
Or pull over and do the same in neutral. But with less revs, say 2000 rpm

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a4f52562ed.jpg

The lack of torque converter status reported by discojeffster was bothering me, even thou I've never looked for it. I would like it to be there when I would like it. My Gap tool showed some values labelled as converter etc, but when selected all showed N/A I had the idea to use the turbine speed and the engine speed. The screen shot shows me sitting still. While driving you get good figures in each page. Not as good as converter status. But still it's some information. Maybe if you had it on a graph with the same timeline it would be better visually? I'm not sure if you can do that. I have not tried yet.
There are also solenoid values in the tool. I might look at the manual and work out which one controls the TC and see if it can be monitored.

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Gavin,

What tyre pressures do you run on the car and van when towing? Has the van had a wheel alignment? Incorrect or uneven pressures and alignment add a truck load of drag, making the engine work even harder.

Just a thought

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Hi Eric, car tyres on 36 front and around 42 rears, van all 45, wheel alignment done about 100 km/6 months ago prior to this trip for the van after scrubbing a tyre on the Qld/NT trip, and the car was done about the same time by the Osborne Park gurus after virtually wiping out a new 697 on the latter part of the big trip. I have no idea how the alignment issues arose (basically in NT and WA on the way home). Normally drive very carefully and definitely didn't hit any kerbs or similar. Never had anything like this happen before in 50+ years of driving on a HC licence.

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

Hey mate, in the case of an over heat, the best thing to do is knock it back a few and put the revs through the roof, that gives lower engine requirement, max water pump and engine fan speed. Plus the torque converter even without lockup is virtually locked and stops generating heat, it also is pumping more through the cooler..

This method only works if you don't have a blown hose or other mechanical issue.
Or pull over and do the same in neutral. But with less revs, say 2000 rpm

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Yep, standard procedure carried over from experiences with the D2.