That quite interesting, and idea of their power consumption?
I only use the BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitors and they claim a power usage of just 1ma.
I have not bothered to test this out.
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Just found this but doesn't help much.
Attachment 161772
According to Ctek specs less than 1mA @12.5V
https://www.ctek.com/storage/BBB54B7...-low-UK-EN.pdf
I found something on the net that said 1ah over a month.
Not sure just how you are testing the fuses, but the following may help:Quote:
I've attached a screen shot of fuses I checked yesterday to check for high current draw. Hoping I'm doing this right. I couldn't reach the lower dozen odd fuses in the bottom of the glove box because of my bad back. Also tested the ones in the engine bay. They were tested with the vehicle off, unlocked and the passenger door and bonnet opened.
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/582b77aa6a4963c3f199b0a5/t/5989d6f3d482e9b676e942b5/1502205684108/Fuse_Voltage_Drop_Chart_-_Standard_Fuse.pdf
https://us.autologic.com/news/testing-parasitic-draw-via-fuse-voltage-drop
You cannot be showing 10 amps across a blown fuse.
Hi Old Farang.
I wasn't showing 10amp across the old fuse.
The fuse is a 10amp and was blown.
The other tests show the amperage showing through the meter.
Thanks.
Is anyone on the forum able to advise if the draw through the fuses is normal please? Any advice regarding finding what's causing the batteries to go flat would be appreciated.
Thanks.
On the screen shot that you posted you have shown all the readings in mV (millivolts). To be able to read ANY current draw (amps) your test instrument HAS to be in series with whatever circuit that you are trying to read. If you read the mV "drop" ACROSS the fuse while it is still in the circuit, then you need to cross reference whatever reading that you have with the charts that I posted.
It is possible to use a "clip on" ammeter around the wire you are trying to monitor, but it needs to be a good quality meter to accurately read milliamps.