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Thread: Discovery 4 "smart" charging system.

  1. #11
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    Jan 1970
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    Queensland
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milton477 View Post
    50A (Well that is what it is set to)
    Hi Milton, it may pay you to check out your system, because while driving at open road speeds, you should be able to get around 100 amps for charging batteries.

    I have monitored my RR and it would charge low batteries with 100+ amps at 14.8v for around the first 30 minutes of a drive and the voltage would taper off from that point.

    My RR has a 140 amp alternator, so it was working at full output.

  2. #12
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    Feb 2007
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    Kalamunda: Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by GIL View Post
    ...Nanocoms Genesis indicates there is a CCF setting where the Battery Monitoring Sensor can be set to 'without Battery Monitoring Sensor'.
    Has anyone tried this?
    That's interesting. When entering the GAP tool's CCF settings for my D4 and doing a search within the BCM ecu for battery related settings the only selectable setting is 'Battery Type'.

    However, if you enter 'Demo Mode' and enter the GAP tool's 'complete & untested' CCF settings for a demo D4 you can find the following battery related settings. The 'Battery Monitor Sensor' is displayed at the bottom of the list.

    Perhaps to save you from yourself, all these additional settings are hidden when you are potentially editing CCF data on your own vehicle.

    Screenshot_20200603-172606.jpg
    2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Milton, it may pay you to check out your system, because while driving at open road speeds, you should be able to get around 100 amps for charging batteries.

    I have monitored my RR and it would charge low batteries with 100+ amps at 14.8v for around the first 30 minutes of a drive and the voltage would taper off from that point.

    My RR has a 140 amp alternator, so it was working at full output.
    Thanks Tim. When the 3 batteries in the D4 are depleted, this happens:

    Screenshot_20200520-103316_IIDControl.jpg

    If the DC2DC is enabled at the same time as the 3 vehicle batteries are being charged as above, the voltage set point rises to 20V & the current swings wildly between 30A & 200A. I saw it happen once & intervened almost immediately & now have a remotely activated relay to control things from the drivers seat.
    + 2016 D4 TDV6

  4. #14
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    Oct 2013
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    Old Toongabbie, Sydney NSW
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    From previous posts since I joined the forum you can contact GAPIID and they will open up your device to allow access to everything - caveat emptor though. You are correct about saving you from yourself as it's on you if you brick your system.

    Martin

    Quote Originally Posted by Ferret View Post
    That's interesting. When entering the GAP tool's CCF settings for my D4 and doing a search within the BCM ecu for battery related settings the only selectable setting is 'Battery Type'.

    However, if you enter 'Demo Mode' and enter the GAP tool's 'complete & untested' CCF settings for a demo D4 you can find the following battery related settings. The 'Battery Monitor Sensor' is displayed at the bottom of the list.

    Perhaps to save you from yourself, all these additional settings are hidden when you are potentially editing CCF data on your own vehicle.

    Screenshot_20200603-172606.jpg

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by letherm View Post
    From previous posts since I joined the forum you can contact GAPIID and they will open up your device to allow access to everything
    Supposedly I have the 'opened' version they only make available to those that ask.
    2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milton477 View Post
    Thanks Tim. When the 3 batteries in the D4 are depleted, this happens:

    Screenshot_20200520-103316_IIDControl.jpg

    If the DC2DC is enabled at the same time as the 3 vehicle batteries are being charged as above, the voltage set point rises to 20V & the current swings wildly between 30A & 200A. I saw it happen once & intervened almost immediately & now have a remotely activated relay to control things from the drivers seat.
    Hi again Milton, and was the 20v reading was at the alternator?

    My GUESS is that the voltage at the cranking battery was still at 14.7v, which is the maximum safe voltage for an AGM cranking battery.

    Did you by any chance monitor the INPUT voltage at the DC/DC device?

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    If this is the case, then there is something wrong somewhere in your system.

    Your BMS should not be active once the ignition is turned off.

    Even when the system is carrying out the battery test, it is only done while the MOTOR IS RUNNING.
    Hi Tim,

    Thank you for your response.
    Your knowledge and insight just gave me a "light bulb" moment.

    I have had the car for 2+ years and always regarded the behaviour as normal. A mates car behaves similarly (he tows also) and there are quite a few posts on AULRO with similar sentiments.

    However, I have not critically looked at the car, and its additions for the source of problems. I am doing so now.

    Found the van brake controller permanently wired to start battery via a thermal circuit breaker. Disconnected so I could monitor current draw. It takes 30-40mA when powered up and sustains this for 2-3 minutes. It then settles down to 18-20 mA til its logic seems to time out, which takes 14-15 minutes. It then drops to about 10 mA from then on.
    All this is not huge, yes. Comparing this to the workshop manual published quiescent current draw it is an increase of 50% long term. The wrinkle is that when the door is opened the unit wakes up again and draws 18-20mA again, and of course opening the door wakes up the car interior etc. This happens quite often when we are away but not much at home where the car gets intermittent use.
    I need to get the use of a tong type tester to check the cars quiescent performance.

    Oh, and the start battery was new just a couple of months prior to my acquiring the car, so I don't believe it to be giving trouble yet, since the behaviour has not changed - but its not impossible.
    The hunt continues.

    Ferret,
    Interesting GAP also shows the setting. Do you know what GAP shows as the options for this setting?
    I have not changed mine yet but it is under consideration once I am satisfied there are no underlying issues with the car. But as Tim advised above the BMS only operates when the ignition is on. So, maybe I'm chasing shadows there.

    Regards
    GIL

  8. #18
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    Apr 2012
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    Whyalla, South Australia
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    Also keep in mind. Just because a function is listed in the expanded CCF doesnít mean:
    - the setting works
    - changing it works
    - changing it doesnít cause a reaction outside of expectations
    Cheers
    Tombie

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  9. #19
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    Hi GIL, I have not looked at any reprogramming, but if you are going to try this method, can I suggest you see if you can disable/turn off the smart alternator function and you should then see a constant 14.3ish volta at all times.

    This is the perfect operating voltage, but as posted, I have not looked at this and it may not be something that can be done with a Land Roverís BMS.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Notting Hill
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    Hi folks,

    Tombie
    Granted. Not everything works as anticipated all the time.
    I wont be getting to the CCF stage until I am SURE no other issues are present in my car.

    Tim
    If/when I get to this CCF thing I will look to see what settings seem to be available for both the BMS and alternator. Thank you again for your expertise and knowledge.
    Regards
    GIL

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