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There's nothing in the CCF about the BMS. Only battery and battery type gets a mention.
Under Battery, 74% of cars were supplied with H8HD 90Ah 950 Cold Cranking Ampere and 26 with T7 80Ah 700 Cold Cranking Ampere.
Under Battery Type, 66% of cars were supplied with H8 AGM 95/850 (As Built Value) and 26% with Battery type 14, 6% with Battery type 16 and 2% with Battery (conventional charge).
I am not sure what the relationship is between the two entries, if any.
Hi DieselLSE,
Thanks for the input.
I found the CCF entry via Nanocoms Genesis website under 'Warnings and Messages'. The setting was 'Battery Monitoring Sensor' and 98% of the cars had it fitted.
It is an assumption that this is referring to the Battery Monitoring System fitted to my 2013 D4.
But, I have not pursued this yet due to refocusing my efforts on parasitic current drain.
If I am satisfied this is OK, I will then reexamine the Battery Monitoring Sensor setting.
Regards
GIL
That is very interesting and not something I had considered.Quote:
Originally Posted by GIL
I have installed a plug into the Traxide earth wire so that it can be isolated when the D4 is not being used much.
Perhaps one in the TowPro earth wire is worth thinking about too, they are both earthed to the stud in front of the cranking battery.
I wonder if the GME UHF has any small drain when off.
Cheers,
Scott
So it is! Missed that. Looks like you could edit it to "Without..." but whether that actually switches it off would be interesting to find out. I suspect not as I have in the past made a couple of changes that had no effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by GIL
While the GAP tool shows the setting, it is not possible to show what options are available.Quote:
Originally Posted by GIL
Thanks Ferret, that would tend to indicate that the field is not editable in a way that is referenced by any other module.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferret
Hi Folks,
Sorry I have been M.I.A.for the past few days dealing with the catastrophe of life.
Thanks all for your contribution to the discussion.
I have not driven or even opened the D4 for 5 days so it has been a good test of not having the brake controller connected.
If I hold my tongue correctly and squint I could convince myself that not having the brake controller connected has extended the time for the start battery to drop. I had the van (and thus its solar) connected to charge the start battery, and the AUX battery via the aux battery controller.
Voltage when disconnected was 14.4v 5 days ago.
Today when measured the start battery voltage was 12.5v. I think this is 1 (minimum) days longer.
I also have checked the Nanocom Genesis site for a setting to disable the "Smart" alternator (as suggested by Tim of Traxide above). I found no mention of one.
I did download my CCF with the Battery Monitoring Sensor disabled in preparation for trying it. It's not impossible that this setting causes the alternator to revert to a standard operation of a regulated output, but who knows.
On the subject of defeating the "smart" alternator. I found reference to a Ford alternator with the 3 pin control connector as was used in earlier Disco's. Apparently if it is disconnected the alternator reverts to a standard operation of a regulated output. It does however generate codes but works.
The D4 alternator is controlled by the LIN bus and I suspect that if it is disconnected we would get codes but am unsure of the ramifications.
My next step is to determine the exact quiescent current draw of my D4.
Then I will have an idea if I'm chasing a "real" fault.
To do this I need access to a tong (also called clamp) tester which will reliably measure down to a resolution of 1mA. I found this on fleabay:
BSIDE ACM91 1mA Auto-Ranging AC/DC Low Current Digital Clamp Meter NCV Temp | eBay
The issue with the current covid-19 environment is that I do not know how long it may take to get here.
So, are there any AULROians with a suitable tong tester in the south-east of Melbourne who could put up with me for around 1/2 hr to do the base quiescent current test. (Takes around 20 min after locking car to completely shutdown, then 5 min or so to test).
Sorry for such a long post and thanks for reading.
Regards
GIL
There are a few problems I can see here.
You claim 14.4v when disconnected. This is NOT a resting voltage. You need to measure again.
How many days is it taking to drop to 12.5v?
Is yours keyless entry? As in just pull the handle?
If so, how close to your vehicle is the key inside the house?
Are you locking the vehicle each time you park up?
Do you have USB ports installed anywhere?
I would strongly suggest forgetting about “hacking” the system and search for the root cause. There’s something in there you either aren’t seeing or haven’t thought of.
Hi Tombie,
The 14.4v was directly after disconnecting the van, so it was full surface charge not resting voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
It took 5 days to go to 12.5v. I didn't measure the voltage during this time.
Car does not have keyless entry only keyless start. Its the pauper pack.
The key is at least 10 metres from the car when I'm inside. I saw somewhere (in Workshop manual?) that the key should be >5mt from the car when conducting quiescent current testing.
Yes, I double lock the car when leaving it. I understand this action more completely shuts down the car.
USB ports. I only have the standard USB ports. The only one used is the one in the cubby lid. The car is fitted with the mid range audio system which has the larger centre dash display screen and the USB port in the cubby lid is accompanied by an ipod port which I do not use. The car has also got the Technology Pack installed.
Completely agree with chasing the current drain before contemplating the CCF change.
Thanks for your advice and insights.
Regards
GIL
Hi GIL and with a battery voltage of 12.5v after 5 days, you do not have a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by GIL
At 12.5v, your battery is around 90% SoC.