High KMS - Transfer case...

Good write up on removing the transfer box and input shaft seal replacement here:

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals

Plus later in the thread are some tips on how to get to the difficult bolts.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Was the grease and o-ring the kit? 2" is quite different to 40mm.

Microcat can be lacking accuracy at times, as with any LR documentation.

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The grease and o ring came with the coupling... I have a transfer case overhaul kit arriving, will see if it has the o ring and grease in it, too.

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

What sort of lube? Lithium grease or HP bearing grease? How would lubricating it prolong life? Appears that a splined fit like that shouldn’t allow much relative play until it’s too late and then no amount of lube will help.

I’m tempted to drop my Transfer Case out for a looksee after 200,000km...

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It's called fretting corrosion, common on any non lubricated male/female spline.
110/130 owners have been battling that on axle splines since 1993 (unless they modify the setup) as have Tdci Deefer owners on that stupidly designed spud shaft.

As JC mentioned, a grease with lubricating solids like MoS2 is the go.
The lubricating solids keep things sliding when the hydrodynamic lube film breaks down under EP loads

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I would expect on/off throttle to be the main culprit and therefore worse for manual gboxes, not that there'd be many of those

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It'll be interesting to see what goes first then, the clutch or the spline.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Good write up on removing the transfer box and input shaft seal replacement here:

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals

Plus later in the thread are some tips on how to get to the difficult bolts.

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Butchering a cheap socket set is a great tip!

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Originally Posted by rick130

It's called fretting corrosion, common on any non lubricated male/female spline.
110/130 owners have been battling that on axle splines since 1993 (unless they modify the setup) as have Tdci Deefer owners on that stupidly designed spud shaft.

As JC mentioned, a grease with lubricating solids like MoS2 is the go.
The lubricating solids keep things sliding when the hydrodynamic lube film breaks down under EP loads

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Mm in tractors too from the engine to the clutch assembly...eg our MF input shaft spline failed due to fretting..no lube applied in factory. Fortunately the shaft spline failed...easy replacement from UK. And not the socket which requires a new fluid clutch assembly costing @5k🤤

MF later changed the design due to failures.

Why do they do it😞

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Originally Posted by BradC

It'll be interesting to see what goes first then, the clutch or the spline.

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My RRC has done 350K and the clutch is still fine, not that it gets any hard work, but it doesn't have this TC with its initial-only (if you're lucky) lubricated spline on the input shaft.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Was the grease and o-ring the kit? 2" is quite different to 40mm.

Microcat can be lacking accuracy at times, as with any LR documentation.

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I re measured the oring and housing. Mine is definitely 2x40

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...505f3ae236.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1efd66131c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5d3ce8fa09.jpg

Couple of different angles for photos. But with and without the oring fitted..
Research shows the box is compatible with my D4 but came out of a V8 rrs

So no o-ring originally???