The system over-ride is available only for the newer suspension ecus fitted to the L405, L494 & L462 Disco.
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The system over-ride is available only for the newer suspension ecus fitted to the L405, L494 & L462 Disco.
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Where is the vehicle at? In Perth?Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMilner
If there's any damage to the sensor tip from the sensor ring on the CV hitting it then only a wheel bearing can cause that. How ever as it is easy to check, and they haven't found any play in the bearing then only leaves wiring or harness damage. Damn...😢
No the car is at my local Indy, TVR in Dunsborough. They haven't had time to do anything more than swap out the right rear sensor cable (no change to the warning lights) but I'll ask them to check again the wheel bearing, before they start the tedious process of tracking down damaged wiring. Oh, and I've been advised to have the battery and alternator checked as well, problems in those areas could be sending the entire electrical system into a tizz.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
All those faults will occur if an ABS sensor fails - they are not indicative of a voltage problem.
The problem with the D3/D4 ECU’s is the system will go into melt down when it gets confusing signals - voltage fluctuations seems to be a common cause of this. But this could be bad battery, bad alternator, a bad earth, a bad splice, a damaged cable, or a dodgy sensor, or a dodgy switch.
When you look closely at how the wiring has been finished off it looks like not enough attention to protecting wires, and possibly sourcing cheap cable where the outer coating goes hard and starts to break down with age.
Bugs me that one of the safe modes it reverts to sometimes is to drop the suspension rather than just locking the suspension at normal height.
I have been chasing down a similar fault now for over a year. Fortunately I can adjust the lowered height back to normal using the GAP tool and can ignore the dancing amigo’s.
Hi Greg, had All the same symptoms. Gap tool actually said front L wheel sensor issue. I replaced the sensor With OEM sensor and within 2 days same issue. Took it to local specialist and he replaced it with genuine LR one and 15000 klms later no drama. He said to never use anything but genuine LR sensors and wheel sensors are top of the list. And if damage wasn’t the cause of the failure then often he replaces the lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMilner
I don’t know enough to argue but proof is in the pudding.
Cheers
Steve
Have you thought about the brake light switch?
As others have mentioned in this thread, the battery is the first thing to check when getting multiple faults for no apparent reason. With a weak battery, when you start the car, the voltage to the various computers drops too much, causing them to throw faults. I would get the battery checked properly, before replacing anything else.
Is that right, Graeme?Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
If the vehicle registers a fault that drops the EAS to the bump stops, will the LLAMS rotary switch allow you to raise the vehicle to a driveable height? Or do you mean the red button, the purpose of which I've never really been able to figure out?