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Thread: Tyre pliers for D4 tyre removal?

  1. #21
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    bead-cheata

    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    I used one of these for years on the farm, BEAD-CHEATA MK II (BEAD BUSTER TOOL) - Online Tyre Store - Tractor, Truck, Turf, Forklift & More! . They work fine on split rims and heavy duty single rims. Not sure on alloy singles, might damage the rim, perhaps. I still have mine in storage, have not got around to trying on my disco rims. The bead-cheata is sold by australian distributors, bought mine at a field days, 30 years ago.

    Lee

  2. #22
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    I used a bead-breaker on a D2 16" rim, Tyre Pliers IIRC for which a special foot was used for the LR rims where the bead is absent at the valve. It wasn't my tool nor my rim, instead the tool owner's rim, carried as a group tool on a cross-country desert trip. However I don't know if the tool is useful for D4 19" rims.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    This topic is an eye opener for me. I smugly decided not to carry a second spare wheel (due to weight), but to just take a spare tyre and a set of heavy duty bead breakers on any extended remote trip. Never got around to testing them. But I'm worried now. We need an AULRO testing lab!
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    whose got a D4 rim they dont mind getting a bit scratched in N melb?
    ....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    yes, but theres a bit of an art to it, many swear words chocks of plastic/wood and tape to protect the rim.

    I also suggest some cheater tubes to extend the handles for the jaws.

    I've used these to remove a tyre from my previous D2a rim.
    Safari 4X4 Store R&R Beadbreaker Official Site - Safari 4x4 store R&R Beadbreaker

    Because we were camped for a couple of days I thought, 'why not give it a go, I've got a couple of hours'. I agree completely with Dave's comments about swear words, frustration, protection of the rim edges ... and time, not to mention getting the tyre to re-seat (I failed) despite lots of soap to lubricate the process. Luckily we were camped on the edge of a beautiful waterhole, under shade, so the opportunity to go for a walk to calm down was invaluable.

    If you decide to go with this option make sure you let them know that your dealing with a Land Rover as you'll need to purchase their Hub adapter so you can get the angles correct on the rim to successfully break the bead. The Beadbreaker also works to refit the tyre without needing to use mallets etc.

    As others have said, the issue is LRs design of the low pressure safety bead. It works really well in keeping the tyre on the rim at reduced pressures, but makes remote tyre changing a real pain. Back in Alice Springs the local tyre agent rolled his eyes at the site of being asked to re-seat another LR tyre on the rim. It finally 'popped' at 90psi, not something you want to be standing next to under OHS standards. Based on my experience you need an equally high volume/flow compressor if you want to maximise the chances of getting the tyre to re-seat in the field.

    I've changed to 17" rims (2.7 TDV6 D4) and carry a complete spare but still carry the tyre changer 'just in case'.

    Hope this helps
    Craig

  5. #25
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    To seat the beads, fit a ratchet strap or hand winch cable around the tread of the tyre to pull the tread inwards which pushes the beads outwards and remove the valve insert to allow faster airflow, after having dropped the wheel heavily on its back to start the rear seal.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  6. #26
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    I've only just remembered buying a bead breaker kit many moons ago and sticking it in the shed amongst all my junk and forgot it until now. Getting old I suppose. I'm going to take it with on our next trip just in case.... and I do remember putting a ratchet strap in to squeeze it a bit to make bead seating easier.
    So the memory is not that bad.
    AlanH.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATH View Post
    So the memory is not that bad.
    AlanH.
    If I could only just remember where the shed is...
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    To seat the beads, fit a ratchet strap or hand winch cable around the tread of the tyre to pull the tread inwards which pushes the beads outwards and remove the valve insert to allow faster airflow, after having dropped the wheel heavily on its back to start the rear seal.
    Thanks Graeme,
    valuable additional points. In my case I had removed the valve centre and tried using a ratchet strap to 'squeeze' the tyre sidewalls out to assist in the seating of the bead, but stopped when the tyre pressure gauge on my compressor exceeded 70 psi. Yep the thought of the strap letting go did worry me.

    I will admit to not trying your 'drop suggestion' although there were times ...

    The temp of the day may not have helped as I'm sure the soap/water solution was drying not long it was applied. I've subsequently read suggestions of people using a small bottle pump spray to help keep the soap solution wet without getting your fingers 'too close to the action'. Seems like a good idea as well and probably worth thinking about.

    Craig

  9. #29
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    Have been following this with interest. While the discovery rims seem fraught with challenges, has anyone any experiences with Tuffant wheels? I have a set that I plan to use on our outback travels..

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    I keep forgetting that things have changed since the 1970's! That's good advice, Tombie. No need to carry every tool known to man and every part that could go wrong. TPMS's are brilliant and relatively inexpensive. Tyre plug kits are everywhere now and really cheap and easy to use. (Remember vulcanising patches?!). A tyre is relatively light and can be safely stored on the roof. Just carry a normal spare wheel and a suitable compressor. And a good jack, dammit.
    And remember if the hole is big, you can put more than one plug in.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

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