Thread: Out of curiosity, I added up 3 years of D4 maintenance...

Oh dear! I shelled out 3K for an extended warranty as recommended by the stealer. I do hope it's going to be worth it although I'd rather the D4 didn't break just to test that.
AlanH.

Bought the D3 jan 2011, do all my own servicing. prolly 2 a yr and $150 per service. Car currently has 165k on it.

Parts that have actually failed
- rear door latch , fixed with no cost only my time - known issue
- Rear drivers wheel bearing $550 .
- Header tank and cap - approx $150.
- Front wheel bearing - $300.
- Front LCA arm bushes - from memory $480- got both front arms on special from LRA.
- Drivers side door latch - less than $100 from ebay
- set of brake pads - bought from a forum member , think about $100
- water outlet - $100
- battery and set of tyres , altho this is standard with any car so prolly shouldnt be included.
- Front drivers side air spring - replaced with used spare i purchased from another forum member - $70

Parts replaced as preventive maintenance..
- Front and rear discs
- timing belt and Oil pump - could prolly put the belt in the above but it didnt fail but was due @ 7yrs
- High pressure fuel pump - was starting to get the random fault , but the car was still drivable
- passenger side rear wheel bearing - drivers side failed , so decided to change the passenger as precaution
- passenger side front wheel bearing - replaced because the other side failed.
- metal pan conversion and new gearbox oil - twice - never put in above as it is supposed to be sealed for life altho thats not the case
- Roof lining as it was just starting to sag in a couple of spots.

purchased because of intended use,
- Traxide dual battery system
- rear wheel carrier
- bull bar
- roof rack

Spent many hours tracing faults , installing traxide , changing gearbox , diff and transfer case oils . Certainly not the most expensive car to maintain i have owned , but spent several thousand on trying to iron out known faults .

Bulletman

Originally Posted by Bulletman

Bought the D3 jan 2011, do all my own servicing. prolly 2 a yr and $150 per service. Car currently has 165k on it.

Parts that have actually failed
- rear door latch , fixed with no cost only my time - known issue
- Rear drivers wheel bearing $550 .
- Header tank and cap - approx $150.
- Front wheel bearing - $300.
- Front LCA arm bushes - from memory $480- got both front arms on special from LRA.
- Drivers side door latch - less than $100 from ebay
- set of brake pads - bought from a forum member , think about $100
- water outlet - $100
- battery and set of tyres , altho this is standard with any car so prolly shouldnt be included.
- Front drivers side air spring - replaced with used spare i purchased from another forum member - $70

Parts replaced as preventive maintenance..
- Front and rear discs
- timing belt and Oil pump - could prolly put the belt in the above but it didnt fail but was due @ 7yrs
- High pressure fuel pump - was starting to get the random fault , but the car was still drivable
- passenger side rear wheel bearing - drivers side failed , so decided to change the passenger as precaution
- passenger side front wheel bearing - replaced because the other side failed.
- metal pan conversion and new gearbox oil - twice - never put in above as it is supposed to be sealed for life altho thats not the case
- Roof lining as it was just starting to sag in a couple of spots.

purchased because of intended use,
- Traxide dual battery system
- rear wheel carrier
- bull bar
- roof rack

Spent many hours tracing faults , installing traxide , changing gearbox , diff and transfer case oils . Certainly not the most expensive car to maintain i have owned , but spent several thousand on trying to iron out known faults .

Bulletman

If you take out the service items (and I've bolded what I consider to be service items) then the only concerning failures would be the wheel bearings and perhaps an air spring. I would have thought the bearings would have lasted longer than that. I like your preventative maintenance. I've only ever had to replace bearings as a preventative maintenance issue, never in anger. But I'll keep a close eye on the D4 now.

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

If you take out the service items (and I've bolded what I consider to be service items) then the only concerning failures would be the wheel bearings and perhaps an air spring. I would have thought the bearings would have lasted longer than that. I like your preventative maintenance. I've only ever had to replace bearings as a preventative maintenance issue, never in anger. But I'll keep a close eye on the D4 now.

The front wheel bearing wasnt so bad , gave plenty of warning and was a reletively easy replacement in the driveway, the rear however has the potential to be a show stopper and didnt give much warning, i was in Tassie at the time and managed to limp it to Kingston to get JC to do the job. The noise that came from it was horrible and i dont think i would have lasted much further . From what i could find the drivers side fails more commonly than the passenger side , but for me it just made sense to replace the other side at the same time even tho they were still ok. I would do the same on any model /make vehicle i own.

I forgot to add that i purchased silicon hoses as well ,but the standard ones were still ok , plus i replaced the alternator recently because i had a new one and the original seems to be failing around the age of my vehicle and kms. In the industry I work in things like alternators, starters , water pumps belts , are just items you have as spare regardless , so i have just done that with all my cars not just the D3. Sure its expense , but for me its just part of my budgeting , so my work ute has the same expenses even tho it hasnt needed them replaced either..

Bulletman

Originally Posted by Bulletman

The front wheel bearing wasnt so bad , gave plenty of warning and was a reletively easy replacement in the driveway, the rear however has the potential to be a show stopper and didnt give much warning, i was in Tassie at the time and managed to limp it to Kingston to get JC to do the job. The noise that came from it was horrible and i dont think i would have lasted much further . From what i could find the drivers side fails more commonly than the passenger side , but for me it just made sense to replace the other side at the same time even tho they were still ok. I would do the same on any model /make vehicle i own.

I had similar with my D3 - around 155,000km when I brought it and the front bearings where stuffed. Rear drivers side failed around 180,000km from memory and the right rear around 210,000km. Both the rears failed quickly and occurred right as I was due to Perth and head home to Tom Price at the time - which is why I only got the failed bearing repaired due to time restraints

228688km and all bearings original still and now in Carnarvon 900km into trip. But I haven’t towed RC’d or run it at max load very much.

Thinking I should change them all soon.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

228688km and all bearings original still and now in Carnarvon 900km into trip. But I haven’t towed RC’d or run it at max load very much.

Thinking I should change them all soon.

I put mine down to several big wet seasons in a row up here in the top end. The car hasnt done a lot of towing but it is a daily driver and seen many a deep puddle over its 9 yrs in Darwin.

Bulletman

Originally Posted by Bulletman

Bought the D3 jan 2011, do all my own servicing. prolly 2 a yr and $150 per service. Car currently has 165k on it.

Parts that have actually failed
- rear door latch , fixed with no cost only my time - known issue
- Rear drivers wheel bearing $550 .
- Header tank and cap - approx $150.
- Front wheel bearing - $300.
- Front LCA arm bushes - from memory $480- got both front arms on special from LRA.
- Drivers side door latch - less than $100 from ebay……………………………………….

That door latch is a bargain as the genuine LR one cost $370 IIRC, and here's a tip, try the door/s after you lock them as I only found out mine was intermittently unlocked after trying it by mistake, the alarm should sound if it does open.