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Seems to be a moot point as to how fast, or not, they "eat bushes".Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Some report bush replacement required from 60k yet others (incl myself) report well over 100k and still going strong.
Guess it depends on road conditions that the vehicle spends majority of life travelling.
Another factor is how you lower the vehicle when parking.
Do it whilst rolling and there is far less stress on the bush.
Do it static and things go under serious tension.
All these little things help longevity.
As a matter of comparison i spoke with a nice lady today with a 2014 RRS TDV8 120000klms who'd been quoted 3k min to replace front LCA bushes which they said was causing a squeaky noise she'd heard.
They had not inspected nor test drove the car b 4 hand and they are not a LR service place. In fact when I spoke with the owner in the pub he said LRs are all **** boxes.
So I sent her to Justine Cooper for a proper job😃
Is that Justin's sister ?Quote:
Originally Posted by INter674
His twin😉Quote:
Originally Posted by letherm
I’ve posted in the L405 section an absolute nightmare I’m having with a friends front LCAs on a 2013 L405. A 4 bolt 3 hour job has taken 3 days. A vertical learning curve. Discovering the ball joint nut was a 38mm multi point socket was the first surprise.
Hoping the super gurus Justin and Dazza etc can chime in.
Passenger side is completed but following the same array of hitting pulling pushing heating air hammering it took on the passenger side the drivers side won’t budge!
Has an aluminium hub carrier with steel cone insert for the ball joint taper. No one in online DIYs has had such problems. A few light taps only.
Currently have tyres on and bolts through the bushing end. I cannot add the nut to the drivers ball joint but wondering if I slowly drove it and braked if it might pop? Would this be a disaster if the front LCA was floating free? I suspect it won’t fall out if I drive it to a shop tomorrow. Someone with bigger tools.
Needs a special C clamp tool as none of the puller tools fit the hub. Top of taper is dia. 27mm so too big for the kids tools they sell and a lot of metal to get around to the bolt head.
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If your trying to pop the ball joint, and if it's alloy you'll likey need some heat. Not glowing red. I use a map gas gun like a plumber and a steel paint scraper to as a heat sheild to protect the ball joint rubber. Heat up around the taper.
If your ever Gunna hit a hub to pop the joint you need to either strike the opposite side at the same time with another hammer or at least hold one on the other side to brace it. Doing that with a jack on the tapered side of the ball joint will get it off. Because of the angle of the joint i would cut some timber on the angle to support the Jack and probably ratchet strap it to the chassis.
Agree with the above...more heat plus heavy hamner and dolly on the other side...2 people if possible..one to hammer the other to hold the dolly. Heating and cooling cycles with a water spray bottle might also help loosen it.
The heat definitely worked to eventually break the other side. It just fell out.
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I’ve had the hot air gun blasting for minutes on the other side with alfoil around the ball joint. Got to be careful going to a gas flame on surrounding aluminium.
Jacked from underneath directly on bolt.
Note there is a steel collar inside the aluminium hub.
Heat gun not hot enough nor concentrated enuf.
Oxy is better cause you can spot heat v quickly or MAP gas second choice.