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Thread: Only replace Timing belt but not Fuel belt? - Thoughts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Bathurst, NSW
    Posts
    100

    Only replace Timing belt but not Fuel belt? - Thoughts

    With my 2014 D4 I'm sitting at about 145,000 and just clicked over 6 years. Planning on getting belts done early in new year. At my last service 6 weeks back with my Indie (when I got all fluids replaced as well), I raised about the timing belt service with him for next year.

    He suggested that in his opinion the rear fuel belt may not need to be done. He was quite adamant that the front timing belt MUST be done. He said, the obvious that if the timing belt goes then your engine is cactus. However, if the fuel pump belt goes all that happens is you just stop and need to get towed to get it replaced. He said he has replaced a few rear belts and apart from the difficulty of doing the job (with the extra cost) he said that every rear belt that he has pulled out has been near perfect and if it was his vehicle he'd just do the front timing belt and not worry about the rear belt. Easy for him I suppose.

    What are others thoughts on this. I'm leaning towards getting the lot done but seeing as I'm out of warranty now anyway, it obviously makes sense to do the timing belt but is doing the rear belt money for nothing. Have any others done this?

    Thanks
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
    Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Perth, AU
    Posts
    419
    Without a doubt, when the fuel belt does fail, it will be at the most inconvenient time possible. Middle of a beach, or when relatives visit, or when towing a hire trailer etc.

    Id just get it done, and drive on fear free :-)
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, GOE Compressor Plate, Traxide D3-DU Dual Battery Kit, Rhino Rack Batwing Awning (Part time install), Hankook Dynapro AT-m RF10

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,676
    Just do both. Also, the 3.0 fuel pumps are timed, so if It breaks then it adds more time and mucking about to set engine at TDC and then lock the fuel pump at its corresponding mark etc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    16,406
    Get both done - yes the back is a pain and I think your just wants to get out of it if he can.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    877
    Definitely do both, no point not doing it, fuel pump belt has does the same time, revs and work as the timing belt. A fair bit of gear has to come off to do front belt, same for rear fp belt .

    Also, get them to replace the front main seal (with genuine), they are there anyway and its a pita to do it later. Seal is maybe 30 bucks, even if its a 100, it will cost you a grand in labour to do it later as the same has to come off again anyway.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,475
    I'll throw another vote to change it. I've done the belts in my D3 twice now, both times the HPFP belt is significantly harder than the timing belt. My theory here is that the exhaust cross over pipe is directly below the HPFP belt so it suffers a bit more heat degradation than the main timing belt
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

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