D4 3.0 SDV6 catastrophic failure

Update from the original post owner.

Well, what was thought to be a simple software update to fix the shifting issues of the new gearbox (the new 2nd hand engine is working exceptionally well and sounds and pulls great, [bawl] when the gearbox was playing that is[bigsad]) has turned out to be something mechanical it appears.

The D4 went back with our very helpful Indy on Sunday to further diagnose the issue [bighmmm]. We may end up with our original box put back in yet........... Hopefully find out soon.

Cheers

Goldey

We have just experienced exactly the same scenario.
Travelling home from the coast in our 3.0l HSE Disco 4... just highway driving, not towing and knock, shimmy, stop.
We just heard from the dealer today the 4 years and 121K kms after spending more than $100K, our car needs a completely new engine + turbos and we can expect a bill of $55K...
Sorry???
What????????
So you buy the car you expect to last you for the rest of your driving life, and possibly tow you and you van around the country and she lasts 4 years?

We are ... appalled.

The car has been serviced religiously and treated with great respect, and yet here we are.
We are bloody horrified.
My 14 year old Mazda 3 has 180K on the clock and has been properly abused and has never missed a beat.

Obviously we have made a call to LR. Anxiously awaiting their response.

I'm sorry to hear of your failure.

As per the other thread I would be pursuing LR for a no cost replacement as well given the age and low kms and your circumstances.

For us, it was handled by a second hand replacement when LR washed their hands, but that is what we were left with.

Hopefully you get a suitable outcome.

Goldey

If the service history is good then lawyering up for some advice or getting the ACCC involved first would be a good move. Cheers

"From what I've read the failed engines don't seem to be age related failures, they are totally random." This is why I'm selling mine. 2016 D4 always serviced at half the hand book intervals as we do a lot of short run plus I'm a bit of a fanatic about clean oils in everything in cars.
Don't like the look of the D5, Defender too expensive at 130K for what it is plus the Cook doesn't like the look of it. :) That counts for a lot if I want a quiet life.
May go and buy another Prado as we had a 120 series moons ago which was trouble free but had an awful 4 speed box. Foot down and all we got was more noise but they now have a 6 speed which should improve things.
I'd rather stay with a Landie but think 130K for a Defender is asking too much for what they are now.
AlanH.

Sorry to hear of you fellas misfortunes, hope my luck hangs in there

I procrastinated at length prior to purchasing my D4 however once I drove it and did the maths on other options to legally tow my 6.5m caravan, I bit the bullet. Sales people were advising stay well clear of LRs, they did have their agendas to purchase their own stock items which did not match the price point that my budget could sustain.

Unfortunately the knowledge gained on this forum has placed further argument against my decision. To negate this there are many great experiences being communicated on this forum and great knowledge on how to maintain this vehicle in an economical manner.

I hope LR stands by their customers.

FYI: "Also for anyone wondering, here is TDV6 vs TDV8 crank for comparison, much thicker !"

Why do 2.7 cranks break?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gravy

LR stands by their customers.

---

From what i have seen on here,and other places, and my experience with LR,that definitely is not something they can crow about.

More likely it seems LR stands behind their customers, bends them over, and…..

There’s an interesting post on FB. Guy bought 2.7D with 260k km (a super cheap bargain) and noticed oil filter had plenty of shiny stuff in it.

“Joshua Westbrook 2.7. 260k kms.These were the two bad ones on journals 3 and 4. The other two were fine.”

“I did the conrod bearings first before removing the oil pump. That allowed me to rotate the crank without losing the timing, then I rolled mains 2-4. Journal 1 is very tight without removing the oil pump as it keeps the crank seated up. I locked the timing gear and I removed the oil pump which allowed me plenty of room to roll new main bearings in. Oil pump was renewed during the process.”

An option prior to expensive engine destruction for 3.0s and 2.7 but keeping a super close eye on the oil filter contamination also very important. (Plus optimal oil pressure and oil selection)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6a79c2cbc0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fa38049392.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7b7d89141f.jpg