Thread: D4 Centrifugal Filter and Engine Oil Cooler

1. Mann-Hummel, the manufacturer of the TD5 bypass filter do sell them as a retrofit kit, (in various sizes) so it can be done.
An old trucking contractor I knew had them fitted to all his DD 60 Series engines in his fleet as it extended the oil service life dramatically.

2. While getting up there, 120° isn't too hot for a full syn oil. Generally oil temps are at least 10° above coolant temps

As Rick said.

I personally wouldn’t bother. Just regular oil changes and top shelf oil and filters.

Newer common rail diesels don't kill the engine oil like they used to with soot so there's most likely little to be gained from the extra filtration.

There was one as standard on a Land cruiser I had back in the day...admittedly it was an indirect injection motor[Hseries]Surprising the amount of crap it threw out,required washing out with petrol to dissolve it.The Federal Mogul/Mann Hummel looks like it uses a rotor similar to the TD5 Westate Diesel Systems Australia – Centrifugal Oil Filtration for Lubricants and Fluids

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

While driving along at 90, towing the brick, I got to thinking about engine oil, and had a few crazy thoughts, so please pardon my ignorance in advance.

1 - I recall the D2 had an excellent centrifugal engine oil filter - could it be adapted for, or is there a replacement that would suit the D4?

2 - I've asked the question before in a different context, but would a replacement, additional or more efficient engine oil cooler assist with engine longevity? Mine tends to be an average of 18C above engine coolant and ATF temps, so about 117 - 120C towing the brick/block of flats.

3 - Is there any benefit in fitting a Provent to a D4?

That's all folks

Aren't you ment to be in the middle of nowhere enjoying the greater wilderness and not thinking about more work you will get me to do?? God damit it, my hair is grey enough after the last work done

Ok, so putting aside any bias I may have to when things get done:
*I don't think fitting a provent is needed, a bit of top end lubing from crankcase venting isnt going to be a problem. It's something I always do say, its not so much the EGR (dry sooty gas) or the crankcase venting (wet oil fumes), its the mixing of the two that becomes the problem. So delete one (my preference is the EGR) and the other isnt a issue.
*We have now, turned off the EGR through mapping, deleted the EGR gas pipe work, and the last one I deleted the EGR cooling circuit loop (as the EGR cooler/heat exchanged had cracked).

*Oil capacity or an additional cooler, I dunno, the trouble with an "additional" cooler (that the engineers didnt deem it needed in the first place) is for normal driving around town it really needs to be turned off, running oil too cold is a bad thing etc etc. Increased oil capacity though is in general not a bad thing, 6lt is about the norm for most engines modernish 6-ish diesels, early 3.0lt V6 diesels in jeeps are 8.4, then went to 7.7, now they are 7.2 (all the same engine), last of the Defender (classics?) are 6.3, then 7.0. I suppose there is also a balance of will the added oil increase load on the oil pump.

*Back in the yee-ole days one could increase the engine oil capacity of an engine with little to no thought about any engineering side effects such as load on pump etc.

Is it beer time yet?