Engine Failure on 3.0lt SDV6 help.

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Originally Posted by INter674

Replacement cranks also come with more thrust washers...so I've read which suggests an end float issue.

Either way the simple answer may just be under design for a car with such weight plus power/torque too high for the crank.

We'll probably never know the truth[emoji52]

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I recently had all my crank bearings replaced including thrust after the thrust movement was found to be twice that of factory spec.

The other preventative measure which I think can’t do any harm is to replace the harmonic balancer when ever the timing belt is replaced (or even every 100,000kms). A low cost part and simple to change out.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

The other preventative measure which I think can’t do any harm is to replace the harmonic balancer when ever the timing belt is replaced (or even every 100,000kms). A low cost part and simple to change out.

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A very interesting point and whilst it's n=1 son's mate with a high powered drift car put on an aftermarket harmonic balancer claimed to better suit high rpm than the factory unit. Duly fitted he said at high rpm it sounded different...soon after...bang....crank went plus knee out of bed. He's gone back to the factory unit.

Likewise the mighty (not) TD42t Nissan engine busts cranks due to poor balancer design and/or perished/aged balancer....which can also happen if it comes loose and by the time you realise the crap Nissan cone lock system has let go...its all over. Solution...mmmm..a 3k billet crank plus rebuild..lets say 10k minimum. But of course a TD42 engine failure/blow up is a badge of honour🙄

replacement of the balancer at 180 000km is good preventative maintenance
found that almost without fail there seems to be some issues going hand in hand with snapped cranks :
driving hard and switching off without allowing the engine to cool somewhat - restarting and then driving hard almost immediately when the oil is thin and pressure not ideal.
using 5W30 as recommended by LR in hot climates where the trend is to lean towards 10W40 full synthetic
failure of the water "manifold" in the V leading to blown head gaskets due to overheating. invariably 90% of blocks we inspect that have suffered a crank failure has had a warped block and if you carefully go back through the history at some stage the car did overheat.
blown head gaskets due to poor coolant maintenance. excessive corrosion can promote corrosion under the steel head gasket. bi metal corrosion where a ferrous and a non ferrous metal are in close proximity will lead to electrolysis which is aggravated by low levels of antifreeze. antifreeze inhibits electrolysis which protects components. ideal levels is 45 - 50% concentration by volume of long life ethylene Glycol and to drain and replace preferably once per year. most people do not realise that the optimum often receive cars with coolant red with rust coupled with blown head gasket. this is also common on the Td5.
oil leaks above or near the TV damper will destroy the damper and can lead to crank failure.
extended service intervals as recommended by LR is not a happy recipe for an turbo diesel. oil - even the best full synthetic - tend to hold its properties fairly well up to 10 000km and thereafter nosedives severely. call me old fashioned but when you hit 10 000km, do at least an oil change.
hot climates the rule of thumb it to lean towards 10W40 full synthetic. high temperatures will also break down the oil quicker.

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Originally Posted by kelvo

Sorry to hear that.

Have you seen this thread? Jaguar Land Rover recall TDV6 engined vehicles

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Thanks for the link I'll have a good look at that.

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

You are probably aware of the LR Service Bulletins SSM71816 and SSM72928 regarding this problem.
Touch wood, at 140,000 klm I haven't yet had the problem.
John Connolly who writes all things motoring in The Weekend Australian, may be interested to hear of this problem as he has had plenty to say about the Mazda engine problems, and in fact may well have had strong influence in getting the ACCC involved against Mazda.
Good luck with it, LR must not be allowed to get away with this problem and should be offering strong financial assistance to affected owners.

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I have emailed John but as yet I haven't heard from him.
I might just have to get back onto him.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by AS355

I have emailed John but as yet I haven't heard from him.
I might just have to get back onto him.

Cheers

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Thanks for everyone input with this issue.
Will keep you posted as to were I end up.

Cheers
Glen

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Originally Posted by AS355

Thanks for everyone input with this issue.
Will keep you posted as to were I end up.

Cheers
Glen

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Have you tried a letter from your lawyer and quoting those two Service Bulletin numbers as well as other o/seas documentation (failures and recalls etc) which others on this Forum have mentioned?

Interesting 5 part video series from Pistonbroke of a 3ltr TD/SDV6 rebuild due to bearing failure.

Land Rover Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Engine Rebuild Part 1 - YouTube

we just had the same issue. 125k on the clock, bought from LR used with 35k, regularly serviced - mostly at LR but once elsewhere, just out of warranty. Started making a knocking sound on the way to the grocery store. Made it home and had NRMA come out to take a look and they had it towed to LR. I'm told crankshaft and total engine failure and $50k for a new engine. We have 4 kids and now have to go buy another 7-seater immediately in order to get by. Anyone have any suggestions on the approach to take with LR? I'm just astonished they can be allowed to do this.