The LR genuine part from a local LR dealer was the cheapest of all when I bought a spare for my D4.
The LR genuine part from a local LR dealer was the cheapest of all when I bought a spare for my D4.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
Thanks all, have purchased one and will swap out, keeping current one for a spare as I have had no issues yet it should be fine for spare purposes.
I'm with Discojeffster......change it out and keep the old one. Even if you have an IID tool or equivalent to clear the faults these things always (for me at least) happen at the most awkward time....e.g. in the ****ing rain, after dark, on a muddy track when my Led torch has a flat battery and there is no signal on my phone etc. etc.
So 6 months down the track and you are out in the sticks and your newish switch fails, swap to the used one and it also fails as its already used = up **** creek.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Buy 2 of everything that may fail. Problem solvered but you may need a trailer behind as well.
I'm going to get one of these switches plus a new soldering iron for the transmission controller when it fails, plus 2 jacks, plus a load of tools, plus I have an Gap ID Tool....... "Where will it all end?" I ask myself.
AlanH.
Actually I checked the price of these switches with the stealer I bought the D4 from today. 65 bucks I was quoted. I said I'll check with a Ford dealer but he assured me that many people find they are dearer. But he would say that wouldn't he.
AlanH.
Bought a genuine Ford switch from Ford dealer in Dandenong Victoria for $29.
Current - James - MY12 HSE D4, Llams, Traxide D4-5S, e-diff, 210k
Previous - Roger - D1 300tdi, Trevor - SIII V8 LWB, Betty - S2a LWB ex-army
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