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Thread: New Disco 4 owner

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    New Disco 4 owner

    Hello there,

    I'm about to be a 'new' 2015 Disco TDV6 owner, purchasing a vehicle that is about as stock as stock can get (metallic blue paint is the option, with a tan leather interior). It has a faultless service history and no other additions, with it sitting at 67,000km. Can I ask what most people are thinking perhaps the top 3 or 4 needs are for this to be modified for longevity?

    I own a farm, and it's for long distance cruising (around 40,000km a year) to the farm and back weekly, dirt road 4WDriving (usually head to central Australia every second year - but that's getting more and more sealed around the MacDonnell ranges and Flinders). Previous cars have been both diesel and petrol, and I am well accustomed to issues with DPFs (having had three DPFs in the space of 18 months on a 2016 Prado). Would I be on the right track of thinking;

    1. Tow Bar (needed)
    2. Catch Can - does this vehicle need/ is OK with one?
    3. Tyres (stock are on it)
    4. ... I am unsure...

    I have searched the forums, and there is a lot of advice. But limited on what the top 3/4 or 5 modifications would be. I have always had a front bar, and never needed it so that'll be a much later addition. Roof racks from Front Runner will be part of the picture.

    Any help would be great

    Cheers.


    EDIT: Also, any good LR service centres around Canberra (home) or Jindabyne (farm) recommendations would be great. Can happily travel to Sydney if there's nothing around.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Hi

    We look forward to you getting your D4 and pics. My wife and I have a 2013 D4 for travelling between our home in Sydney and our farm near Rylstone each weekend. It's a fantastic touring car for the 4 hour trip and so very capable on a dirt road.

    You probably don't need to do much. We have a tow bar for the occasional towing of a trailer (and towed a Series 2a on a flatbed when we bought one last year. ) The tyres we are using are the standard Pirelli ATR+ and they are fine on the dirt and still quite on the bitumen. Because of the distances we travel I got a TPMS. Better to have some warning of a tyre problem than a sudden failure. I haven't got anything more than the standard lights for the car, as they are pretty OK, but you might want to get some driving lights if you drive down at night.

    Best wishes on your car.

    Mike
    Our car: Fuji White MY13 D4 SDV6 SE 3.0 Litre, 8 spd auto.
    My car: Series 2a Workshop, 109 inch WB, ex mil., 1971. To be restored.
    Wife's car: Series 2a FFT, LWB, ex. mil., 1966. To be restored.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Get the car fully serviced soon inc the gearbox..unless it's been done already and halve the service intervals. Find a good indy and buy a GAP tool to track n trace and resolve faults. A catch can is a good idea too IMHO.

    At those low k's you are onto a winner that is worth looking after. We have the petrol SC and its the best car ....ever☺

    We have Khumo on/off road tyres n std rims which are ok for what we do..mostly dirt/tar and towing...and it tows brilliantly..self levelling etc etc.

    I fitted Hard Kor spotties to improve long range lighting but std lights are quite good. Also get a decent set of mud flaps othewise it will rash the flares and sills real quick.

    Do a search on here for mud flaps n lights.

    Oh and if towing fit the Redarc Pro controller..don't go with any others...just don't 😎

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    New Disco 4 owner

    Welcome. Re the tow bar, fit either a Mitch Hitch or a Recovery brand hitch. I have the recovery and are more than happy with it. I found it 2nd hand at TRS.

    Also but an iiD tool from Gap and a TPMS from safety Dave. You won’t ever feel it know if you get a flat tire because of the air suspension and the traction control. I bought a mount from a guy who 3D printed it. Pretty happy with the install. I think the mount was only about $10 or so?

    Recovery Brand Hi Lift Hitch Discovery 4

    https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Baldivis WA
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    A MY15 D4 will not have a DPF, so one issue not to worry about.

    The towbar is a removable receiver hitch, this lives in the passenger side cubby in the boot, this should have been provided to the original owner when the D4 was delivered new. So hopefully still with the D4

    A catch can does not seem to be required/very few fit one.

    Tyres assuming you have the 19” rims have a limited choice in AT versions. Everybody’s view on tyres are different. I have Maxxis AT980 in 255/55/19 on my MY14 D4, slightly noisy but not enough to bother me.

    Get a GAP IID tool, this is a specific OBDII diagnostic and programming tool.

    TPMS could be handy, as suggested by John_D4, but I’d suggest having a look at the Digoptions ones. I have this 6 TPMS Tyre Pressure Monitoring System Caravan Truck RV Sensor LCD 4WD Wireless 4x4 using two sensors on my camper trailer, they do a 4 sensor system as well. The only note with that is that the tyre valve mounted sensors will mark the rim overtime. Clear protective body film stuck on the rim by the valve would prevent this.

    Other tips for helping longevity, oil and filter changes at half the factory interval (13,000Km not 26,000Km) or more often. Only use an oil that meets or exceeds the correct Ford spec, WSS-M2C913-B/C (Non-DPF engine). I use Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start 5w30 A5 and genuine oil filters I mine.

    Both timing belts (Front engine and rear fuel pump) are required every 7 years or 182,000Km whichever is sooner.

    Modifications are a personal choice, what suits one person is irrelevant to someone else. I have a Traxide dual battery setup, RedArc EDB, ARB front bar, winch, Rhino Rack platform roofrack, Rear ladder to access roof, UHF, APT compressor guard.

    Something like LLAMS Llams PTY LTD – NSW, Australia ABN 75 144 697 325 maybe be of use if you are travelling on rough roads at speed to allow you to drive in off road suspension height, as standard the D4 will not allow off road height at speeds above 50kph.
    2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
    2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
    2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Your new D4, as is, will be perfect for what you want it for. Good suggestions above, except there's no need for a catch can.
    Bearing in mind I do my own servicing (if you don't, then you're right in seeking a good indie), then this is what I would do:
    1. Check existing service records. At 67,000 and four years the brake fluid and fuel filter should have been changed and probably other bits and pieces like filters and pads. You just need to know so you have a baseline to start with. If you don't have the service records PM me with your VIN.
    2. Assuming normal servicing, by now I'd look at replacing the diff and transfer case oils. I wouldn't bother yet with gearbox service, but pencil it in for around 100,000. With your use, you could easily get away with up to 130,000. It's heavy towing, serious 4WD'ing and/or city driving that demands earlier servicing. Costs about $774 from a ZF authorised workshop. Expect to replace the front lower control arms at about the same time. It's not a weakness, it's what allows such a magnificent ride and off-road flexibility.
    3. Assuming you have 19" wheels, I'd stick with the OEM tyres until they wear out. Then probably go Pirelli AT+.
    4. Definitely get a TPMS. I prefer the ARB unit as it's so unobtrusive.
    5. Definitely get the Mitch Hitch for towing. The OEM one is perfect for towing a horse float, annoyingly low for anything else and shouldn't be left permanently on the car.
    6. Seriously consider replacing the plastic water inlet manifold with an aluminium one. Or at least carry a new spare one. When they split, it can be catastrophic as you're not aware of it until it's too late. Your $60k D4 is now worth about $5k. Well, a new motor is close to $30k.
    7. Halve the engine oil and filter service intervals. With your driving, 12k to 13k or every six months should be fine, but you'd get no argument from me if you went 10k.
    8. Consider Stedi globe replacements depending on what lighting system you have. If Xenon, Stedi high beam infills work well (to replace the halogen infills). Unless you drive extensively at night you probably won't need driving lights.
    9. Personally, I'd never have a 4WD without a bull bar and winch, but that's just me. If you don't need them, why add all that weight to the front axle and suspension?
    10. Consider getting a diagnostic tool. You have a choice of GAP or Nanocom.
    11. Have a good look around the engine bay (take the cover off) with a torch. You're looking for any leaks and smears. It should be pristine down there. Jump on any leaks straight away. The throttle body doesn't like getting clogged up, but it will over time. It's a simple job to remove, clean and replace with new seals. Same with a lot of the other plastic bits. I can't stress enough the importance of going all Zen and just letting the car "talk" to you. Just spend time looking. Follow pipes, look at fluid containers.
    12. Switch off anything that will stress the battery. Do not leave the headlight switch on auto. Do you really need the lights to stay on for 30/60 seconds after you switch the engine off? Do you really need the headlights to come on every time you start the car? In Norway, possibly. But here? Also, do you really need the interior lights to come on every time you open the doors? Just hold the centre light switch on for three seconds and it will flash and switch the auto function off. Do the same to switch it back on.
    13. Once you reach your farm and have to drive slowly from gate to gate, you'll be driven mad by the seat belt warning ding. Simply, with the engine off but the ignition on, insert and remove the driver's seat belt to/from the buckle for 8 or so times until you hear a ding. The ding is now off forever, but the warning light still glows which is all the warning you need.
    Enjoy your new car. We all love ours!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  7. #7
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    Welcome and hopefully the D4 serve's you well.

    My 4 would be....
    1- Code Reader -, the most important tool you can have.
    2 - gearbox service and replace the plastic pan to metal if possible - if the car been towing the 70,000ks will be max for the oil. IMHO
    3 - Check the water outlet - basically its at the front of the V on the engine , depends on what you read depends on what kms / time it should be changed.. any sign of coolant loss , get onto ASAP as its an engine killer if it fails. I have a 2008 D3 and im on my 3rd housing - my interval is 5 yrs regardless of how it looks, plus i have a spare.
    4 - Battery - yours is 5 yrs old , some get more , some less , but 5 yrs seems to be a good run out of these car batteries.

    The rest is personal choice as said before.

    just my 2c

    Bulletman

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulletman View Post
    2 - gearbox service and replace the plastic pan to metal if possible
    2016 will be 8 speed. No replacement pan available.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post


    Link for 3D printed holder for TPMS gauge?
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  10. #10
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    Thank you!!!

    Wow! Thanks so much for the really really helpful replies!

    Sounds like;

    1. GAP IId diagnostic tool
    2. replace the plastic pan to metal,
    3. Mitch Hitch with (if I get one) a Redarc tow-pro Elite V3
    4. TPMS
    5. Check the water outlet at the front.
    6. Look to change the battery to be on the safe side.
    7. Get a gearbox service at the next interval (even though I know it hasn't been able to tow, as it has no receiver/ blank is still there).
    8. Half there-abouts the regular servicing interval.

    All too easy!

    That's brilliantly helpful. I'm in love with it - it was the car I should have purchased instead of the Prado in 2016 - and I knew it at the time and can't explain the silly decision. All good now though!

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