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Thread: D4 Cooling system differences?

  1. #1
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    D4 Cooling system differences?

    With the D4, are there any differences in the dimensions, capacity etc of the cooling equipment between 2.7L, 3.0L TD and 3.0L SD and if so what are they?

    I'm thinking of coolant, engine oil, a/c, fuel, power steering, auto trans, and even thermostats and any unusual cooling that other models might not have?
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #2
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    I think I know where your mind is at.

    There’s no notable difference and no benefit to changing.
    Your vehicle has more than adequate cooling capacity if the system is up to spec - even towing your block of flats. D4 Cooling system differences?

    Look at airflow restrictions like number plate, driving lights etc to improve efficiency.

  3. #3
    josh.huber Guest
    Gav, throw your scan tools out the window. They seem to ruin your holidays

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    I think I know where your mind is at.

    There’s no notable difference and no benefit to changing.
    Your vehicle has more than adequate cooling capacity if the system is up to spec - even towing your block of flats. D4 Cooling system differences?

    Look at airflow restrictions like number plate, driving lights etc to improve efficiency.

    Yep, you picked it.
    "Spoilers" are an ARB bar, including under-protection and a Runva 11.5 Top mounted winch. No extra lights, but numberplate straddles the two lower horizontal openings.
    I think I'll start with putting/dropping the numberplate down to cover the fairlead on a hinge as per my LSE TD5, and see if that improves the airflow, plus I'm still very interested in applying the recent post for an additional ATF? cooler that I saved the details of.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  5. #5
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    D4 Cooling system differences?

    Gavin - having seen the temps you have posted before, you obviously do need to keep an eye on this. I do think you are running too close to the edge and you are yet to hit real hot conditions but at least it is manageable at present.

    Sounds like Tombie could be onto what your issue is if you have lots of air flow restrictions at the front.

    Can you post a picture to show how much you do have mounted on the front? I recall Tombie also warning people before about being careful with what is mounted in front of the air grille with the D3/D4.

    Could be a combination of restrictions at the front and too much under body protection preventing the hot air from escaping the engine bay that is the issue.

  6. #6
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    If the relatively standard setup of ARB bull bar, winch and underbody protection is seen as a common problem for cooling systems on the D4, surely we'd see more overheating issues relating to it?

    I'm certainly not saying it isn't true, but I personally haven't seen that many complaints about it, maybe I'm missing them.

    I know on other vehicles that haven't got great cooling systems or the run of the mill ARB setup (especially underbody) has been a problem, there have been better aftermarket solutions. Specifically relating to the underbody, I have seen some setups that still offered great protection (arguably much better than the thin ARB pieces...) while incorporating into the design elements for airflow. Channels, grooves, grills, fins and shapes to encourage flow through the radiators rather than around. In my little bit of searching since we bought the D4 at the start of the year, I haven't seen any options for it that took airflow into serious consideration...

    Is this a more common problem than I'm seeing? Are there better protection options out there?
    -------------------------
    Chris Phillips


    Offroader: 1996 Discovery 300TDI (The Green Donkey)
    Missus: 2010 Discovery 4 TDV6 (Fancy thing)
    Just 'cause: 1999 Discovery SE 3.9L V8 (Makes fun noises, sometimes...)
    Spares: 1998 Discovery 300TDI (Only vehicle actually in the garage..........)

    Run around:
    2001 Nissan Pulsar ST 1.8L (Soul crusher)

  7. #7
    josh.huber Guest
    Hey Gav,

    When was the last time you cleaned out the cooler pack. They do collect crap between the coolers which affects them allot. Grass, seed etc.

  8. #8
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    Mine has never overheated but got close a few years ago going up Adelaide Hills towing Van and 45C.temp. Car went into a sort of limp model and dropped the gears to keep revs up and the car cooled down. Also I put some flywire mesh in front of radiators. I change it every year. Simple to do when front grill is removed. Its amazing the number of flies, bugs and mud collects there, but it tends to keep the core clear and clean.
    2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 KO, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery with winch set up,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Gavin - having seen the temps you have posted before, you obviously do need to keep an eye on this. I do think you are running too close to the edge and you are yet to hit real hot conditions but at least it is manageable at present.

    Sounds like Tombie could be onto what your issue is if you have lots of air flow restrictions at the front.

    Can you post a picture to show how much you do have mounted on the front? I recall Tombie also warning people before about being careful with what is mounted in front of the air grille with the D3/D4.

    Could be a combination of restrictions at the front and too much under body protection preventing the hot air from escaping the engine bay that is the issue.


    Will post pics of the front icluding down under after I get home next week - and after dropping the numberplate.

    I'm satisfied that this is not a generic D3/4 problem for cars fitted with fullish front protection, and that yes I'm getting close to the edge of vehicle capacity with my towing, hence my desire to implement some mitigating strategies/equipment as I want to keep the beast for some time yet.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirvine View Post
    Mine has never overheated but got close a few years ago going up Adelaide Hills towing Van and 45C.temp. Car went into a sort of limp model and dropped the gears to keep revs up and the car cooled down. Also I put some flywire mesh in front of radiators. I change it every year. Simple to do when front grill is removed. Its amazing the number of flies, bugs and mud collects there, but it tends to keep the core clear and clean.
    Mesh in front of the rad blocks flow hugely. Worst thing you can do. You can look up online the difference in flow between mesh and no mesh of various grades. It acts as a blind to flow and most air builds up and flows around it. I’m not surprised it nearly overheated.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

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