Google "Dymark protech graphite" the only stuff to use in my opinion.
Cheers
James
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Google "Dymark protech graphite" the only stuff to use in my opinion.
Cheers
James
Prompted by this thread, I removed the tow hitch from the D3 today. Last time I removed was about 5 years ago when I replaced the original D3 hitch with one from a D4.
Only took me 30mins to get it out - seems it is the lock mechanism that jams up if not used regularly (and yes I do know how to operate the lock).
Might strip down the old D3 hitch mechanism for practice and then do the same on the D4 hitch.
For anyone interested, this is the comparison is size between the D3 and D4 tow hitches.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad2eb2504f.jpg
Hi
> Might strip down the old D3 hitch mechanism for practice and then do the same on the D4 hitch.
Beware. See that little pin poking up? Under that is a very small, strong, spring and a ball bearing. It is just waiting for an opportunity to escape :-) From personal experience with mine.
Mike
I suspect if you remove the ball bearing, small spring, and that pin you would actually make it less likely to jam up if you tend to leave the hitch permanently fitted like I did for the last 5 years.
On closer examination I believe the small spring/ball bearing and the release pin seize up and this is what gets jammed and prevents the main plunger being withdrawn to allow removal of the hitch.
I have decided it is best to leave the tow hitch removed and only fit when needing to use. Then you can make sure it is all free before fitting. If planning on leaving it fitted - then remove at least once a year and lubricate to make sure it hasn’t seized up.
This is all even more important for those with a D3 hitch as you won’t be able to get the spare wheel out if the hitch is stuck on.
I leave the hitch in if only when in the city, to deter red p,platers sitting millimeters from my rear bumper.
Bit off topic but that reminded me of an incident 40 years ago when I had a Triumph 2.5 with a non removable tow hitch. I had started off to go round what was back then a decent roundabout at the end of the Causeway in Perth when a clown suddenly changed his mind and shot across my bows instead of going right round which his indicators suggested he was. Nothings changed, they still haven't the faintest idea about how to use roundabouts here in WA. :) But I digress, I had to brake and a Datsun (pre Nisscan) hit my rear end.
What a mess, it's headlights all smashed and radiator gone etc. Anyway he was a mechanic for John Hughes (just over the Causeway in Vic Park ) testing a clients new recently serviced car. :O
I swear his boss was going to bust his boiler but arranged a hire car for me while mine was fixed.
What happened to the mechanics career or him I don't know....
AlanH.
Speaking of maintaining the tow hitch....
Runaway trailer carrying a car veers across busy motorway before crashing into tunnel | Daily Mail Online
It seems in the UK safety chains are not mandatory if the trailer has brakes and as such are rarely used. Instead braked trailers are meant to have a breakaway cable to apply the trailer’s brakes if it becomes detached.
I have even read in the UK if you have a breakaway cable then safety chains are not meant to be used - it is either one or the other system and not both. It is expected the braked trailer disconnects and runs to a stop on its own. Trailers even have to have a jockey wheel or skid plate to prevent the front coupling digging into the ground to allow for this. Safety chains are only used on un-braked trailers.
This would explain in the video why the trailer ran so straight and smoothly after it became free - even managing a perfect overtake manoeuvre to pass the Disco. Clearly the breakaway system also failed.
Apparently fitting both a breakaway cable and safety chains is quite controversial, and many seem to think this is more dangerous and potentially illegal to do in the UK.
Would be interesting to know if this is true as it sounds a bit strange.