Reply With QuoteIf you wish to have it unlock with the remote then the door card will need to be removed so that the door actuator (lock mechanism) can be replaced with a new one.
Been there, done that, numerous times...
Master
SupporterHi all, I recon my disco is developing Covid, or maybe it's sulking due to lack of play time this year
Anyhoo rear passenger door tries to unlock when I activate central locking but doesn't quite manage it. I can see the internal locking lever move, but fail to unlock. However it does lock automatically so it's likely a mechanical issue.
Is this likely just a case of needing lubricating? If so any recommendations, silicon, graphite, other?
Don't particularly remove the door card..
TopicToaster
If you wish to have it unlock with the remote then the door card will need to be removed so that the door actuator (lock mechanism) can be replaced with a new one.
Been there, done that, numerous times...
Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
Master
SupporterCheers Dale, so yours unlocked but struggled to lock?
Assume you replaced with with a genuine actuator? Any recommendations?
TopicToaster
All 3 (so far) have not locked when the vehicle has been locked with the remote. I replaced the driver's door with a genuine actuator.Originally Posted by BushDisco
The LHR would not lock with the remote but would if the dash button was used. Eventually that failed too and also the door could not be opened with the handle from the inside with the door unlocked. Hence a non-genuine actuator ended up being supplemented with a genuine actuator cable (to the internal handle).
The LHF I also replaced as per the LHR although through my expert (non)craftsmanship I also had to replace the cable to the external handle as well...
IIRC the internal handle cables on the LHS are both the same. The non-genuine actuators I sourced from Island 4x4.
Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
Master
SupporterCheers Dale, seems I’m in the early stages as it’s just Remote unlock and everything else works fine. I’ll take a butchers over the weekend and see if there is any thing obvious, otherwise I’ll order a new actuator.
Probably a silly Q, but have you oiled the mechanism?
Cynical Moi?
So the old D1 & possibly others wasn't so bad after all when all one did was replace a tiny off the shelf spring worth about 50c.
I bought a packet of 5 so I would have spares & over the years had used them all up.
On the D1 you could also gently lever out the LR Oval badge in the lock area & lubricate inside with a blast of WD40 or what ever took your fancy.
Much less expensive than a new lock.
Master
SupporterCheers Mick, yep I'll be trying that tomorrow, just wanted to know common issues. Been smashed at work this week so no chance to take a proper physical look.
Hoping it's that easy, touch wood but 210k and the disco has had very very few issues other than normal wear and tear.
Cynical Moi?
Something other than Oil may be the way to go as Oil will attract dust in that area & you could be in more strife than Ned Kelly. A silicone spray may do the trick.
Super ModeratorIt'll be the lock motor. Done 3 on the LR and too many to count on VWs. You can replace the actuator, or you can pull the motor out, *pop off the end-bell, clean up the brushes & commutator, lube it up and put it back together.
I can do it in about 20 minutes now, but getting the lock out and back in takes a bit longer. I have some spare motors I bought off Amazon floating about in a box. I bought them after I did the first one, hoping that it'd last long enough for the new ones to arrive. Haven't needed them yet.
These cars are all the same. The lock motor runs at full power for about 5 revs at best. Often it doesn't run at all (like when people keep pressing the lock or unlock button) and just sits there stalled. The brushes and commutator wear with the arcing, but as the motor never has a chance to get up to speed, none of the grunge ever gets flung off and it just builds up.
I'm going to tempt fate now, but up until this point (~6 years) I've never had one re-fail after a clean out.
* the phrase "pop off the end-bell" somewhat simplifies the process of getting the thing apart without irreversible damage and getting it back together again without damaging the brushes but if you've ever done the motor on a Scalextric or pretty much any other small DC motor they're pretty much all the same.
Edit : Having thought "there's probably a youtube video somewhere showing how to do it" : How to Fix Central Door Lock Motors - Freelander 1 and other cars - YouTube
He changes the brushes and end-bell. I've never had to even consider that. The brushes have always cleaned up nicely.
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