2015 TDV6 Snapped Crank

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

100%
Silicon is an interesting additive, used as an anti-foamant.
Sodium, potassium and silica are the ones to watch for coolant, more so than glycol in an oil sample too.

Sump capacity has a major bearing (no pun intended [emoji16]) on oil life.
At the same time as I was able to easily exceed 20k km on TD42T's, 300Tdi oil was toast at 17,500km on the same, premium and bloody exxy full syn oil, as in well past condenmnation limits.
Yet I'm the Tdi was an efficient direct injected engine vs the 'dirty' indirect injected Nissan.
We dropped the oil in the Nissan at 20k as we were in front financially at that point, otherwise the oil was fine to continue on and actually looked better than an older mineral oil were are using during warranty at 5,000km.

Re 26,000km though, as Shane said, his samples in his 2.7 are much the same at 14k as they are at 24k km

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Thanks, I actually intended to say "sodium" but somehow wrote sulphur, or as the Yanks would say, sulfer.
Forgot to mention what the oil chemists call "flash point" of the oil which is very important, ie, any fuel dilation/fuel present in the oil which would be of relevance and interest to us as being a possible contributor to engine bearing problems.
And of course an engine which works 23 hrs out of a 24 hr period and often at a constant (low) rpm as most mining machinery does, will always outlast a (car) engine which has continual cold starts, shortish runs, varying rpm, stop/start, etc etc.
I must confess that I retired from the workforce long before Synthetic oils have become the 'norm', so am unfamiliar with how they look on oil analysis reports these days insofar as extended oil change periods.
My days the common diesel engine oil was a 15W40 mineral such as Castrol J Max, and Komatsu 15W40 which was basically Castrol blended to Komatsu requirements.

Now that this thread has passed the 100 post mark and moved on beyond the OP’s original post I would like to add some warnings to people as I have been researching this topic for some time now.

I stress that this has nothing to do with the OP’s engine failure - but M005 I trust you are OK with me posting this here as it is important consumer information.

There is a reputable engine rebuilder based in the UK who bought a batch of non-genuine TDV6 cranks which failed within 20,000kms of the rebuild. They owned the problem and did not hide this fact.

Another reputable engine rebuilder also in the UK also had issues using non-genuine gaskets which would start to leak (some would say proof they are genuine - but this is not the case with the TDV6).

These are lessons learnt the hard way by reputable engine rebuilders that you can find out for yourself online.

In the UK, Australia, South Africa, and probably all around the world - you can now buy very cheap Disco’s with a failed engine for next to nothing, and either use for parts or put a replacement engine in it and resell for a tidy profit. Especially the case if it is a low mileage D4 with a failed engine and the owner was quoted up to $40K for a new engine.

CONSUMER WARNINGS

If you are getting a TDV6 engine rebuilt - make sure you know where the parts are being sourced from.

If you are buying a second hand Discovery - make sure you are confident it has the original engine. Checking the rego papers is not proof if the rego has not been updated. Not having the original engine is not the issue - but not being told it was replaced is.

If it doesn’t have the original engine - make sure you know the origins of the replacement engine, and if it was a rebuilt engine then check where they sourced their parts from.

And if you have bought a second hand Discovery and experienced a TDV6 engine failure shortly after buying - make sure you confirm if it was the original engine fitted - especially if you bought from a dealer as you may have recourse.

Sadly there are suppliers based overseas who are very good at reproducing parts that look the same but are not the same - and if reputable engine rebuilders in the UK can fall for this then it can happen anywhere.

Caveat emptor - let the buyer beware.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

100%
Silicon is an interesting additive, used as an anti-foamant.
Sodium, potassium and silica are the ones to watch for coolant, more so than glycol in an oil sample too.

Sump capacity has a major bearing (no pun intended [emoji16]) on oil life.
At the same time as I was able to easily exceed 20k km on TD42T's, 300Tdi oil was toast at 17,500km on the same, premium and bloody exxy full syn oil, as in well past condenmnation limits.
Yet I'm the Tdi was an efficient direct injected engine vs the 'dirty' indirect injected Nissan.
We dropped the oil in the Nissan at 20k as we were in front financially at that point, otherwise the oil was fine to continue on and actually looked better than an older mineral oil were are using during warranty at 5,000km.

Re 26,000km though, as Shane said, his samples in his 2.7 are much the same at 14k as they are at 24k km

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Was that full synthetic oil in a 300Tdi? I was told that was a bad idea and to always use 15W40 mineral oil in our D1 300Tdi.
Our current Puma Defender uses full synthetic and LR says 20,000 km services, but our indie British Offroad advises 10,000 kms, which I'm following.
So just interested.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 101RRS

But I bet the Great Wall does not have a snapped crank [bigsad]

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No, it has a blown head gasket....:wallbash:...FML...you couldn't make this stuff up [bighmmm]

So back to no vehicle, only sold an old D3 I'd been running as a 3rd vehicle a month before this all happened.

Dealer has confirmed snapped crank on the D4.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by M005

No, it has a blown head gasket....:wallbash:...FML...you couldn't make this stuff up [bighmmm]

So back to no vehicle, only sold an old D3 I'd been running as a 3rd vehicle a month before this all happened.

Dealer has confirmed snapped crank on the D4.

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I subscribe to the theory of having a duty unit, a stand-by, and a spare. But I do like to have back-ups to my back-ups.

So took them a while to confirm - thought they could work that one out quicker. So what happens next?

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

So what happens next?

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I wait for the phone call.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by M005

I wait for the phone call.

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Well I think that deserves a meme....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ba9642205b.jpg

Just some info I supply to any customer (in W.A) when they are doing a warranty claim...(the lawyer I mention has offices all over Aust)

INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE ACCC
Consumer guarantees
Under the Australian Consumer Law, when you buy products and services they come with automatic guarantees that they will work and do what you asked for. If you buy something that isn't right, you have consumer rights.
Consumer guarantees on products and services

Since 1 January 2011, the following consumer guarantees on products and services apply.
Products must be of acceptable quality, that is:

• safe, lasting, with no faults
• look acceptable
• do all the things someone would normally expect them to do.

Acceptable quality takes into account what would normally be expected for the type of product and cost.
Under the ACL having your vehicle serviced by an independent licensed repairer is not legal grounds for rejecting a warranty claim.

Warranty
A warranty against defects is usually limited by time.
All suppliers, manufacturers and service providers that provide you with a warranty against defects must comply with that warranty. If they do not, you may bring an action against the person or business who provided the warranty, either under the ACL or for breach of contract.

Consumer help
Contact the dealer
We recommend contacting a dealer in your area as the first step in resolving your issue. If the dealer is unable, unwilling to assist you or rejects your warranty claim then please use the below information provided.
Lodge a formal complaint with Consumer Protection (Dept Commerce WA) and contact:
https://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/sites...laint-form.pdf

Land Rover Australia
Customer Relationship Manager
Call: 1800 625 642
Email: crcau@jaguarlandrover.com
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As for trying to find out what parts were used in a rebuild, good luck with that.
A repairer, rebuilder etc could say anything that suits their purpose at the time.
I would be more concerned about buying a used vehicle if it had the orig engine and has done less than say 160K.

IMHO...
I understand oil testing on engines worth more than a house not to mention replacement costs, downtime etc etc, talking millions of dollars in related costs.

But the oddity of you lot that get the oil tested on your little tiny put put light vehicle to me doesnt seem dare I say cost effective?
I mean hey, by the time you have, what taken a sample or are you doing an engine oil change anyway? drop it off or send it away to get tested, bluh bluh etc etc.

Is it not easier to use a good quality engine oil spec'd for your vehicle and change it every 10K?
I also assume the "oil tester group" do their own servicing, so what? $200 of oil at worst? once or twice a year?
Oil changes are cheaper than engine changes.
Also are you lot testing the auto trans oil as well? if not, why not?

None of it makes sense UNLESS you are doing it purely for interest sake, then I completely understand. [tonguewink]

[tonguewink]