Changing a Wheel - Disco 4

I am not sure what the issue is - I am 66 and a porker and I changed my rear wheel on Wednesday no issue - I just put the wheel onto one of the wheel studs and push the the wheel in until the centre of the wheel is on the lip of the hub - just keep the wheel pushed in as it is now centred and turn until a stud in in the center of a hole and put a wheel nut on - easy peasy.

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Originally Posted by hiker

Hi Tombie

Have a look at this and let us know what you think ... Atlantic British Presents: Using A Wheel Mounting Alignment Tool on Land Rovers and Range Rovers - YouTube

It would be a new direction for me, but as I get older I'm always looking at ways to make this job easier!

cheers!

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Just watched the vid and laughed.

In the first 30 seconds he physically lifts the entire wheel twice!

Doing it the way I do, I never lift the wheel from the ground manually.


We do however all need to take our physical circumstances into account, and if there are issues manage them accordingly.

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I don’t even understand the jack thing. Just lift the car with one arm and fit the wheel with the spare arm? I mean, doesn’t everyone press a few tonne before breakfast?

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You think the Disco is hard try a VW Tiguan with no studs on the hub. That’s a rubics cube to get started even with half the weight.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Just watched the vid and laughed.

In the first 30 seconds he physically lifts the entire wheel twice!

Doing it the way I do, I never lift the wheel from the ground manually.


We do however all need to take our physical circumstances into account, and if there are issues manage them accordingly.

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I noticed the same - and then getting the tool off took longer than fitting the wheel.

I do like the idea of the tool, but will give Tombies method a go next time. Sounds like an improvement over lining up the hub so you walk the tyre on.

Anyone who has done a back injury doing simple tasks knows the importance of minimising the risk. As we get older it seems wheels are getting heavier.

I do have one question on this subject that’s puzzled me for ever.

When undoing wheel nuts I use the quite handy LR tool because it fits the nuts easily.

When I try a socket it’s too tight often getting stuck on the silly LR nuts. Makes using a breaker bar hard.

I use 12 point sockets so maybe a 6 point would be better?

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I do have one question on this subject that’s puzzled me for ever.

When undoing wheel nuts I use the quite handy LR tool because it fits the nuts easily.

When I try a socket it’s too tight often getting stuck on the silly LR nuts. Makes using a breaker bar hard.

I use 12 point sockets so maybe a 6 point would be better?

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Always try and use six point sockets on anything high torque as a rule.

I really do find using a shovel to waggle the wheel around which is just off the ground makes it so easy to refit the wheel. Luckily I haven't had to do it often but certainly takes the strain out of doing it.
AlanH.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I do have one question on this subject that’s puzzled me for ever.

When undoing wheel nuts I use the quite handy LR tool because it fits the nuts easily.

When I try a socket it’s too tight often getting stuck on the silly LR nuts. Makes using a breaker bar hard.

I use 12 point sockets so maybe a 6 point would be better?

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Bunnings sell a king chrome 22m 6 point plastic coated deep impact socket. $20, perfect.

Fortunately the situation doesn't occur very often! I've made a note to try Tombies method as I don't always carry a shovel as part of my emergency kit.
Have now replaced all tyres with Pirelli Scorpions so hoping for a better run!

Thanks DiscoDB - would love to try it but with my new Pirelli Scorpions, I'm hoping it may be a long time!

Cheers!

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Well done hiker - good to have a prepared plan of attack.

Having watched the old man change flat tyres on a truck I learnt the secret is to get the hub height right so you don’t need to lift the wheel at all.

Jack it up just enough to be able to move the flat tyre so you can “walk” it off, then increase the height a bit and “walk” the spare tyre on.

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