I use a 4 inch block of wood which I drive the flat tyre onto making it high enough to get my bottleneck under the wishbone.
I do agree with what you've said but that particular jack worked for me. Keep in mind the car is supposed to be in off road height which should alleviate that particular problem most of the time.
I keep a jacking block (a piece of 2" sleeper for use in sand to support the jack) under the rear seat. Once (I think) I had to use the scissor to get some clearance, used the block on its side to hold the car while I replaced the scissor with the bottle jack. Desperate measures... yadda yadda.
BTW the other handy use for the jacking block is to force extended mode by lowering the car (chassis rail) onto the block (held on its side).
I use a 4 inch block of wood which I drive the flat tyre onto making it high enough to get my bottleneck under the wishbone.
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
I've got a small trolley jack that has it's own plastic case. It fits under the suspension (control arm/airspring point), and then lifts the vehicle enough to change a tyre.
It's rated at 2T (or 2.5T), from memory. I bought it after reading many posts on this forum - it's stable, safe, really easy to use - IMHO better than a bottle jack (and we shouldn't even be talking about the OEM item as a jack - it's terrible!).
I got the jack from my independent mechanic who does all my servicing - he recommended it specifically for the D3/4, due to capacity, overall height, ability to get under the suspension arm and lift height.
Also, I don't change the height of the vehicle to jack it up - although I do pull the fuse on the air suspension whenever i'm jacking the car (or getting underneath it)... I know people say "open the door", but I don't trust it!
In my view, this is the only jack to use!
This post has more info...
Enjoy!
Rob
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
I have only ever changed a D4 wheel once - to swap two fully-inflated wheels. I followed the manual and used the pristine jack and chocks. All went precisely to plan. I even correctly torqued the wheel nuts after refitting. The only surprise was 1) how easy it was, and 2) how high the vehicle has to be cranked to get a wheel off the ground - it seemed like metres!
After a couple of bad (stressful) experiences, including 1 LR Roadside Assist, I purchased a Kincrome K12158 bottle jack (10 tonne) - I chose this one because it sits comfortably in the cavity behind the middle row.
Last Sunday I had another flat tyre (rear) and followed my prepared plan which worked - I was on my own (and I'm 70 yrs old!)
Please note: this was a FLAT tyre!!
Lower spare to ground with a lot of extra length
Drive forward so that spare centre is just away from rear bumper
Remove cable
Raise car to full height
Place bottle jack under chassis rail - I have used white paint to highlight location of jack positioning holes
Lower car to normal height - chassis now sitting on the jack waiting to be lifted
Loosen nuts
Raise tyre off ground
Change tyre - (so bloody heavy!)
Lower jack to min height
Raise car to max height to remove jack
Lower car to minimum height to replace spare
Attach spare to cable
Reverse car over spare
Raise spare
Tighten wheel nuts
Wrap up and destress!
this is the first time I've had to use my prepared plan and it worked for me - the hardest part and most frustrating was lining up the stud holes and doing up the first nut!
The bottle jack details are
Min height 187mm
Max height 367mm
Lift height 120mm
Screw height 60mm
Kincrome bottle jack.jpg
2016 Firenze Red Disco 4 TDV6
2018 Firenze Red Disco Sport
... plus many previous!
Well done hiker - good to have a prepared plan of attack.
Having watched the old man change flat tyres on a truck I learnt the secret is to get the hub height right so you don’t need to lift the wheel at all.
Jack it up just enough to be able to move the flat tyre so you can “walk” it off, then increase the height a bit and “walk” the spare tyre on.
One of these guide pins makes it easier to 'walk' on!Guide Pin.jpg
2014 D4 HSE, Traxide Dual Battery System, llams, Compomotive Rims, Prospeed Roof Rack, Rock Sliders and Compressor Guard.
By chance I had one made yesterday. Certainly makes the job easier. Note, the thread is metric 'fine'.
2024 RRS on the road
2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks