Checked the central bearing and rubber mount along the rear drive shaft or even worn splines on the drive shaft?
I'm at my wits end with this diagnosis.
My D4 has a bad vibration which is related to road speed & accelerator input. The more right boot, the more severe the vibration especially at low speeds - 30km/h.
Severe clicking like a CV at full lock can sometimes be heard at low speed irrespective of the steering direction.
Coasting or going against compression eliminates the vibration completely but unhappy mechanical noises can sometimes be heard which sound like gears climbing over each other.
The vibration is as bad as driving over moderate corrugations & causes the interior of the car to vibrate at low speeds.
The vibration is present in low range & in any of the special programs.
There have been no faults on GAP.
On the advice of an experienced indie, I have changed the LH front drive shaft (half shaft) for a new one but without result.
The front diff oil is free of metal.
There is no excessive drivetrain backlash.
A small amount of grease has been thrown out of the front propshaft universal at the transfer case end.
All\any suggestions gratefully accepted.
+ 2016 D4 TDV6
Checked the central bearing and rubber mount along the rear drive shaft or even worn splines on the drive shaft?
2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
Short of putting it on the Dino machine to listen for noise I’d ask myself why is the front prop shaft throwing ANY grease at all. Could be a clue and not expensive. $25 each on eBay. Is the prop shaft damaged? Still the fact noise is eliminated when not loaded up really for me is driveline ie front CV. Sadly might be the one on the right. Good luck
2014 white TDV6, compomotives with BFG KO2, E-Diff, rocksliders, Redarc DBS, Mitch Hitch, TPMS, icom UHF, GOE compressor and bash plates, hidden winch Mount, GAP ID tool.
Good advice thanks. This was my initial thought so torch in hand I had another look.
This is what I found;
Propshaft.jpg
Looks like the bits inside are trying to escape through the casing. I'll order a new one tomorrow & see.
BTW, the vehicle has done 130k km, most of which has been towing. The first hint that something was amiss was 4000km ago & was diagnosed as worn engine mounts.
+ 2016 D4 TDV6
All fixed now, I have my old smooth disco back.
The front propshaft was the problem but had absolutely no play in it to give a clue as to the problem. The first clue came when I could see one of the balls from the universal through the shroud of the front (diff) universal. There was zero lubrication left in the joint & I struggled to compress the shaft to remove it from the vehicle.
The first warning sounds were heard probably 6000km ago but when there is no play in the driveline, how do you diagnose the problem? I did the double cardan in my D2 twice so I am very aware of what a stuffed propshaft looks like. I use my vehicle + caravan for business trips to some remote locations. The last trip to a site north of Mt Isa was a 4000km trip with the van in tow. When I left Brisbane, I was worried, when I returned, I was terrified something was going to break off. The noise was deafening but there was still no backlash in the driveline! I decided to drive until something broke. You can't fix something if you can't see that it's broken & while in Toyota country at 40+ degrees.
These propshafts are tough & hide their failures well. See the pics below: Top one is looking at the flange where the bolts go through to the front diff. The second is the uni joint without it's protective seal. See how the balls are unevenly spaced & there is no grease visible.
20201126_201152.jpg
20201126_201128.jpg
About LR turning drivers into mechanics...
+ 2016 D4 TDV6
How many ks are on that shaft?
2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
Good result, glad you found the issue. Yes they are tough CV jounts and shafts.
Some food for thought to check mine...front and rear propshafts and cv joints.....
Ta for the photos.
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