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Thread: Rear Valve Block leak

  1. #1
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    Rear Valve Block leak

    Hi team. I changed my rear valve block tonight as I had diagnosed it as the cause of my slow leak. After much battling I thought I was done - worst job on the car so far - however now it is not sealing properly with the rear green connector and is a large leak.
    I didn't change the connection heads to the valve block - is this the next step? Should I use some type of sealant?
    Some help would be great. Foolishly I attempted this job having just sold our other car so there is some urgency to getting it going.

  2. #2
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    Rear Valve Block leak

    Quote Originally Posted by Parso View Post
    Hi team. I changed my rear valve block tonight as I had diagnosed it as the cause of my slow leak. After much battling I thought I was done - worst job on the car so far - however now it is not sealing properly with the rear green connector and is a large leak.
    I didn't change the connection heads to the valve block - is this the next step? Should I use some type of sealant?
    Some help would be great. Foolishly I attempted this job having just sold our other car so there is some urgency to getting it going.
    Small o rings should be replaced on those nuts the hoses run through. Careful, very easy to cross thread and destroy valve block.

    Valve solenoid Qring Installation Part 2 - YouTube

    Better access via the removed spare wheel well may help as hoses have slack to go inboard not outboard when you are working from the wheel side.

    Like this

    Land Rover Discovery 3 Air Suspension Rear Valve Block Removal and Refitting - YouTube

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the quick reply! If there is line slack I'll cut the knuckle and replace the brass fitting and olive. If not I'll try the old valve block and see if a better seal

  4. #4
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    I feel your pain,I had to change the front one twice over a few years in mine.

    I always thought that rear one looked like a PITA to replace,but thankfully it never had to be changed.

    Good luck with it.
    Paul

    D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56
    Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Small o rings should be replaced on those nuts the hoses run through. Careful, very easy to cross thread and destroy valve block.

    Valve solenoid Qring Installation Part 2 - YouTube

    Better access via the removed spare wheel well may help as hoses have slack to go inboard not outboard when you are working from the wheel side.

    Like this

    Land Rover Discovery 3 Air Suspension Rear Valve Block Removal and Refitting - YouTube
    You're a star @PerthDisco! In the light of day and after some sleep I pulled off the hose to find it was actually missing the o-ring! Whether it fell off, flew off or had disintegrated I don't know. I popped a new one on and we're back in business. Awaiting a drop test but no audible / visible soap leak!

  6. #6
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    Rear Valve Block leak

    Quote Originally Posted by Parso View Post
    You're a star @PerthDisco! In the light of day and after some sleep I pulled off the hose to find it was actually missing the o-ring! Whether it fell off, flew off or had disintegrated I don't know. I popped a new one on and we're back in business. Awaiting a drop test but no audible / visible soap leak!
    I’m well researched on the subject as have some valve blocks from a wreck I’m servicing for replacements but let me say removing them from the car with wire cutters is a breeze.

    I wonder though if you left the old oring in the hole and have now squished it down into the valve?


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    I’m well researched on the subject as have some valve blocks from a wreck I’m servicing for replacements but let me say removing them from the car with wire cutters is a breeze.

    I wonder though if you left the old oring in the hole and have now squished it down into the valve?

    I'm currently now getting a suspension error with the vehicle raising slowly then the amber light.
    It very well may be unrelated and be the compressor failing (I'll go get the codes read as sadly no fault reader here) but I'm thinking I should remove the rear valve block and check nothing has been pushed in as you suggest.

  8. #8
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    Poor thing was caked in mud. Guess it was overheating!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parso View Post
    I'm currently now getting a suspension error with the vehicle raising slowly then the amber light.
    It very well may be unrelated and be the compressor failing (I'll go get the codes read as sadly no fault reader here) but I'm thinking I should remove the rear valve block and check nothing has been pushed in as you suggest.
    The new valve block should have had new connectors already attached.
    You needed the remove the airline from the old valve block remove the olive / connectors and push into the new valve block. If you try to re-use the old connectors there is a good chance there will be leaks. I learn’t that the hard way.
    MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeanC View Post
    The new valve block should have had new connectors already attached.
    You needed the remove the airline from the old valve block remove the olive / connectors and push into the new valve block. If you try to re-use the old connectors there is a good chance there will be leaks. I learn’t that the hard way.
    The oring should stay on the connector and be replaced in any service of the valve block so if you don’t have an oring find it.

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