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Thread: changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanegtr View Post
    The evidence of marketing I suspect. To me the most important thing is to change the oil while its still hot. This makes sure any contaminants are well and truly suspended in the oil and will be removed with the oil drain.
    Yep, I actually tend to do it a half interval also. But likewise it puts my mind at rest at the very least even if I am potenetially wasting money.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  2. #12
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    Here we go again. Next it’ll be the Slick 50 recommendation along with a Polariser, any maybe a hyclone thrown in for good measure.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Yep, I actually tend to do it a half interval also. But likewise it puts my mind at rest at the very least even if I am potenetially wasting money.
    And that's why we cannot necessarily listen to what the manufacturer says, even if it is thought that "they know best".

    It's generally accepted by many of us that the oil change intervals which LR have endorsed in their Service Schedules are quite possibly a contributing factor in crankshaft failures, and as a result we have halved the recommended period and down to approx 10-12,000 klms.

    Again, re what I mentioned previously; it is common knowledge that LR's "sealed for life" policy for auto oil is ridiculous in the interests of long component life.
    It's been proven beyond doubt it is imperative to be changed reasonably often if a long life is expected.

    LR and other manufacturers are under huge pressure to stretch oil change periods for all sorts of reasons, environmentally (less oil wastage) and to reduce owner operating costs (marketing hype).
    They don't have a worry as it'll be out of warranty anyway.......
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  4. #14
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    I've written way too many words on here over the years on oil, how it works, what's in it, what's in additional additives, why they are (mostly) not a great idea and why they are (mainly) just a way to lever more $$ out of your wallet.
    I just can't be arsed repeating it. If anyone cares to search there's a bucket load of info from a number of informed people going back to almost the beginning of the forum.

    At the end of the day whatever makes you feel good.
    As humans we'll do almost anything to justify our decisions and actions, especially purchasing decisions.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    I've written way too many words on here over the years on oil, how it works, what's in it, what's in additional additives, why they are (mostly) not a great idea and why they are (mainly) just a way to lever more $$ out of your wallet.
    I just can't be arsed repeating it. If anyone cares to search there's a bucket load of info from a number of informed people going back to almost the beginning of the forum.

    At the end of the day whatever makes you feel good.
    As humans we'll do almost anything to justify our decisions and actions, especially purchasing decisions.
    Those anti-ageing creams the girls spend a fortune on just don’t seem to be working either!

  6. #16
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    Thanks to all I think I will dump the oil from a warm engine. Change the filter refill with new brand of oil and repeat 10,000 km from now.
    Cheers guys and thanks again.
    2010 D4 3litre twin turbo brand new motor 5km old on a 100,000km car. Kaymar rear bar, ARB front bar, Hannibal roof rack, Hella Predator Spot lights, long rand fuel tank, Traxide battery management. touring weapon.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Those anti-ageing creams the girls spend a fortune on just don’t seem to be working either!
    changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?changing oil companies do i need to flush the engine?
    or their demeanour . . .

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by coopers1969 View Post
    Thanks to all I think I will dump the oil from a warm engine. Change the filter refill with new brand of oil and repeat 10,000 km from now.
    Cheers guys and thanks again.
    Get a 10l vacuum siphon pump from ebay, you get more of the oil out (the suction point is deeper in the sump than the drain plug) and suction out from the top of the engine. There's a dedicated steel riser tube for it. Takes 20min from a warm engine, no need to crawl underneath and muck about with sump plugs and bash plates.

  10. #20
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    Plus while using an extractor you can fiddle around with other things like checking/changing the air filter etc. I like extracting rather than draining as it's also the cleanest oil change I've ever done.
    Just under 6ltrs comes out.
    AlanH.

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