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Thread: Kings light bar

  1. #21
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    driving lights and light bar

    plus 1 for Stedi lights, have just wired up their 42" light bar for the roof and did a set of driving for my brother's hilux. wiring is simple and straight forward with all supplied relays. and for something different running Supernovas as driving lights.... spot those roos a looong way off

    both companies great products and great support...

  2. #22
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    Speaking of legal requirements I notice a lot of people mount light bars on the roof rack and although an excellent position for them to be in, for WA at least, it's illegal to do this. Make sure you know what you can do in your state and if travelling to other states, is it legal there?
    Rod

    D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocket rod View Post
    Speaking of legal requirements I notice a lot of people mount light bars on the roof rack and although an excellent position for them to be in, for WA at least, it's illegal to do this. Make sure you know what you can do in your state and if travelling to other states, is it legal there?
    Maybe you mistyped this but in WA it’s ABSOLUTELY legal to have a light bar on the roof. Read the latest regs.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Maybe you mistyped this but in WA it’s ABSOLUTELY legal to have a light bar on the roof. Read the latest regs.
    Ah my bad, they are not allowed to mounted on top of the roo bar. Roof rack is ok.
    Rod

    D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    This is probably just being overly cautious, but if using the high beam supply as the auxiliary lighting relay trigger, I would then use a diode protected relay to prevent any fly-back effect for when the auxiliary lighting relay switches off. This is just to prevent a reverse current high voltage spike flowing back to the FET used to control the high beam when the added relay switches off
    Thanks, every day is a school day. How do you know the relay is diode protected, just the description?

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    Thanks, every day is a school day. How do you know the relay is diode protected, just the description?

    Scott
    The relay circuit diagram on the box / relay will look like this:


    See the “arrow with line” on the left side.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelvo View Post
    I’ve fitted a 30” Kings lightbar to my MY14 using the Kings harness. It is not plug and play. I spliced into the passenger side high beam trigger just behind the headlight, which is blue with a slate tracer. Mounted the relay in the oval cavity just in front of the main battery and the switch on the left side of the steering wheel cowl.
    Picking up on this old and interesting thread - I recently bought some Kings driving lights and a harness kit to go with my new Kings awning. I've installed Kings lights previously on an 80 series which is plug and play using the H4 headlight connection in the kit. Surper simple.

    So for the D3 and the Kings kit I found the blue / slate (grey) wire at the back of the LH headlight however the Kings setup has a positive and a negative wire running from the harness to the headlight connections they provide.

    I tried splicing into the blue / slate with the red wire and earthing the black wire but I'm not getting the spotties to fire up. Any further tips? MAybe back to front if this is a negatively wired system?

    I also could not take the negative to the battery terminal as there is no ability to add an extra lead here. I'm using the earth points just in front of the battery box. Assume thats OK?

    TIA

  8. #28
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    You should ALWAYS use the earth points in front of the battery box.

    Never connect ANYTHING except the main terminal to the negative post.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    You should ALWAYS use the earth points in front of the battery box.

    Never connect ANYTHING except the main terminal to the negative post.
    Well I got that right then so just to solve how to get the trigger signal to the relay

  10. #30
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    Kings light bar

    I think you’re mixing up the lights power (positive and negative on the relay) versus the switch/trigger. The switch/trigger is fed from the headlight blue/slate grey. This is then either passed through to the relay to to turn on the lights or is blocked by the switch position.

    I have my red connected to permanent power on the batter and negative to the chassis. Trigger to the blue/slate.

    (You can’t run the light bar off the blue/slate grey- it doesn’t have the current capacity)
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

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