Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 61

Thread: Slow a/c on D4

  1. #11
    josh.huber Guest
    I'll gut my compressor when I change it and report on what I find

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Forrestfield WA
    Posts
    1,306
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Once this happens you are up for a very expensive new compressor as changing the valve very rarely fixes it fully. I have had two compressors in 300,000km due to the same fault. Before the second one I changed the VD valve, which only helped for a short time and even then it didn't work at peak efficiency. The compressor is very difficult to access and not a nice job.
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2019 Discovery 5 SD6 SE, 20 inch wheels, 275/55R20 Nitto Grappler G2 tyres

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,293
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Had my AC regassed and checked as a preventative measure. No leaks found. Refrigerant charge was at <70%, not sure if the dye+gas+stop leak has negatively impacted my 10yo AC system...

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    I'll gut my compressor when I change it and report on what I find
    I want to know how you get it out at home. Do me a write up!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    2,701
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    I want to know how you get it out at home. Do me a write up!
    Voila

    How to replace AC compressor on Land rover discovery 3 2007 turbo diesel - YouTube

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,293
    Total Downloaded
    0
    +1 for me, would be interesting indeed.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Nirvana near Albany W.A.
    Posts
    2,480
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Lol, 10 hours No need for any coolant hose removal, and there is a couple of differences on the 3.0 litre
    Fan and belt off
    Wheel arch liner off
    Upper control arm off
    heat shields off
    intake and boost pipes off
    front lower plastic cover off
    connector for variable displacement valve disconnect
    other visible connector disconnect
    pipes off
    remove bolts for compressor
    disconnect remaining connector
    remove

    reverse for refit

    Bout 3 hours to do the job, maybe 4 or 5 for first time , but check the plastic coolant outlet isn't leaking while compressor is out as this is a good time to replace it

    enjoy

  8. #18
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
    No one of consequence
    Supporter
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Perth (near Malaga)
    Posts
    3,546
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Had my AC regassed and checked as a preventative measure. No leaks found. Refrigerant charge was at <70%, not sure if the dye+gas+stop leak has negatively impacted my 10yo AC system...
    Vehicle refrigeration systems leak. They have rotating mechanical seals, O-rings and the usual compliment of service valves. They leak. They _all_ leak. They leak less than they did 40 years ago, but then on the flip side they hold an awful lot less refrigerant.

    A preventative re-gas every couple of years is more than a good idea. If you want your A/C to last, make sure it has enough gas to properly transport the lubricant. They will still "get cold" with enough of a deficit to cause impaired lubrication.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,293
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Vehicle refrigeration systems leak. They have rotating mechanical seals, O-rings and the usual compliment of service valves. They leak. They _all_ leak. They leak less than they did 40 years ago, but then on the flip side they hold an awful lot less refrigerant.

    A preventative re-gas every couple of years is more than a good idea. If you want your A/C to last, make sure it has enough gas to properly transport the lubricant. They will still "get cold" with enough of a deficit to cause impaired lubrication.
    Fully understood, i guess i meant to say "the system had no significant leaks" issue i have is that the AC seemed better pre-recharge than it is now post "preventative measure" re-gas.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,293
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    Lol, 10 hours No need for any coolant hose removal, and there is a couple of differences on the 3.0 litre
    Fan and belt off
    Wheel arch liner off
    Upper control arm off
    heat shields off
    intake and boost pipes off
    front lower plastic cover off
    connector for variable displacement valve disconnect
    other visible connector disconnect
    pipes off
    remove bolts for compressor
    disconnect remaining connector
    remove

    reverse for refit

    Bout 3 hours to do the job, maybe 4 or 5 for first time , but check the plastic coolant outlet isn't leaking while compressor is out as this is a good time to replace it

    enjoy
    Lol "22 grand" for a new compressor as he says, makes the car nearly a write off if the compressor fails...

    You lost me doing it DIY at "upper control arm off" - now a job for my indie. I understand the viscous fan needs a set of special spanners to remove

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!