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No it doesn’t. I simply use a cold chisel to crack it. Done it a dozen times successfully. You just need to break the tension. Sure, you can buy or make special spanners buy you don’t have to. The fan is the least of your worries!Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Around $1200 for compressor ( sanden )Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Fan Spanner 36mm ( its left hand thread )
Upper control arm is easy part , remove height sensor rubber, remove abs and brake sensor grommets , undo bolt to move brake line out the way, undo sway bar link nut , ball joint nut undone enough to protect the threads and a whack with hammer to break the joint .
Once separated , cable tie the hub assembly to the airstrut , then mark position of where the control arm sits , so when you tighten the nuts for the bushes it sits in the same position on assembly, if this is not done you will kill the control arm bushes .
Have faith Grasshopper[smilebigeye]
Ok, faith restored, how hard can it be? AC comp hasn't failed yet, will see with slightly cooler weather how the AC goes, it was 42 outside when i noticed it was not as cool as usual...
Well pretty crap write up but hey, some idea of it. He didn’t even show how it comes out.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
If the upper control arm is coming off I'll do bushes while I'm there. I best get to ordering those
Talked himself into defeatQuote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
So what's the going rate for a regass/topup for a D4 in Perth these days please?
$395 for syatem evac, vac test, dye and stop leak and refrigerant regas.Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinwibrow
Stop leak is the Devil. Especially with a variable controlled compressor and a tx valve that's hidden in the dash.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Yes,if it needs any kind of stop leak in it, the AC guy hasn't done his job properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber