Slow a/c on D4

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

So would the hychill SRO500 be a good alternative replacement for R134a refrigerant?

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The hychill product you need is called minus 30, it's the r134a replacement..
The oil is SRO500, I would only use SRO out extol with hychill.

some people like hychill.. its up to the hype with lower head pressures etc..
Personally I'll only put it in where I need to. The pressures are slightly different between the two gases when cooling at the same rates in the same environment.

I'm not sure whether the D4 monitors the pressures to control cooling in the system. If the compressor was cheap and easy to change I would probably do some decent testing on the subject. The gas component is not expensive, so no need save money.. The real plus is anyone can buy and use hychill. No licence needed to fill. You do need a licence to work on a system that has not been decommissioned though.

I got 10 years out of the first compressor. I wouldn't mind guessing that sanden have gotten ontop of the issue by now

Righto righto.

I got the compressor last week. Borrowed the gear because I knew it would be a long job and changed the compressor and the drier.

Before you read the rest. If you have slow or intermittent cooling. I don't recommend you attempt this job unless your going to flush the system. I got so much grey death ( worn alloy) and metal in the flush. I also never change a compressor or do a service without changing the drier.

I must admit I didn't watch any videos leading up to it. Just thought I would get it done and enjoy a few home brews in doing so.

The compressor change out:

Revive front left wheel.. Wheel arch flare.. Inner guard.. Small guard held in with 4 plastic rivets... Bash plates.. Heat shield..

Then onto the real stuff.. Bottom intercooler hose. In sections all the way to turbo.
Turbo inlet hose. Again in sections..
Let the belt off let the wiring go. There is a harness clamp in the back of the compressor you need to let off to. 3 bolts hold the compressor and it just comes out the front.

Note... The new compressor will come with 75cc oil. The LR book says you need 110cc in the system. And the next job is flush. So you need to add oil to the new compressor. I drained there oil and filled with extol as that's what I always use.

Then flush the system. The tx valve lives in the cab on these cars so I couldn't remove like I normally would. I just flushed the condenser first. Then did the rest of the system. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...787bde1367.jpg

Because of how filthy it was I flushed about 4 litres through and let it sit a few times to soak. After flushing. I Changed all orings affected and put back together. Fill the compressor with oil and reinstall through the front. All orings lubed with oil . 3 bolts in and tight then you can get to everything else. You don't get access to bolts once the pipe work is in. Don't underestimate the oil filling. Critical.

Next for the drier..
Other flare off.. Grill out.. Headlights out.. Bumper off.. wind deflector out.. front bar looking thing off.. remove the left two (as you look at it) condenser mounting bolts. The top right and loosen the bottom right. Pull the condenser forward and remove the retaining bolt for the drier.. Then undo the clamp at the top. Reverse the process..

Because of the flush process and how long I had the system open. I left in vac after it reached vac for 3 hrs. Then I let it stand for 1 hr to make sure it held vacuum. Then put it on for another 2 hours. Just while I was reassembling. Charged system. Tested. Very happy man

If I seen a bill for 7 hrs I wouldn't be offended. But I hardly tried. I was procrastinating expecting it to get hard. It just never did.

Starting the job

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8b0a10139b.jpg

Progress

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8105e922a3.jpg

Drier change out

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...44e22a3db8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4f35ab89a0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...673e57df25.jpg

Great job.

Sounds like you have all the AC gear to evacuate flush and recharge? How would you go if you wanted to do the labour but use a shop for the refrigerant parts?

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

I got so much grey death ( worn alloy) and metal in the flush.

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Ewww. It'd be interesting to tear down the compressor and have a look at the wear and pop the RCV and see if there is obvious sediment around the valve. Mainly to verify "If you pop the valve out and it looks like this, you're really needing a new compressor".

Out of interest, which flush do you use?

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Great job.

Sounds like you have all the AC gear to evacuate flush and recharge? How would you go if you wanted to do the labour but use a shop for the refrigerant parts?

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I have the same idea. There are some cheap Chinese pumps on eBay for around $120. Just need to then get flush, gas and oil, and the know how to do it. Sounds too hard to me [emoji1787]

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Great job.

Sounds like you have all the AC gear to evacuate flush and recharge? How would you go if you wanted to do the labour but use a shop for the refrigerant parts?

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I have my licence and access to the gear.. you can get anyone to"decommission" the system. Wreckers etc.. Then go home and do the work. The only drama is the flush. But anyone can buy a flush gun and clean the system them selves. It's up to you whether they investment is worth it or not.

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Originally Posted by BradC

Ewww. It'd be interesting to tear down the compressor and have a look at the wear and pop the RCV and see if there is obvious sediment around the valve. Mainly to verify "If you pop the valve out and it looks like this, you're really needing a new compressor".

Out of interest, which flush do you use?

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I've put it back in the box. It's going to work for the next air con class to do exactly that. My suspicion is a worn swash plate bearing with all the metal I got.

I used this flush

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...24ceeacf42.jpg

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I have the same idea. There are some cheap Chinese pumps on eBay for around $120. Just need to then get flush, gas and oil, and the know how to do it. Sounds too hard to me [emoji1787]

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If your Gunna have a run at a cheap pump. Run hychill. Anyone can buy it. Use there oil. I'll talk you through that process. The only thing you can't buy is r134a. But you can buy hychill. And from memory in 1kg cans.