Zf steel pan

Hey Nick, if you replace the pan and filter now, how many kms will you run before a second flush? Given not all the fluid can be replaced at once...

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

If the engine WASN’T running and the level was set, it would now have too little oil in it as it all settles in the sump with the engine off. I can normally add an additional 1-2L with the engine running after the initial static fill

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What DJ said, issue is the torque converter is only filled with engine running, so this is why engine needs to be on when filling after a drain. Cycling through the gears removes any entrained air from the valve body and valve lines, ensuring full hydraulic line pressure during operation.

not my first rodeo, level is correct.

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Originally Posted by Timhodgson

Hey Nick, if you replace the pan and filter now, how many kms will you run before a second flush? Given not all the fluid can be replaced at once...

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The point of flushing is to get most of the old fluid out, a simple drain and refill does not.

When I flushed mine, I connected to the radiator line and pumped fresh fluid in with a 12v oil pump at the same time as pumping old fluid out with the engine running.

Ended up pumping out 10L but still expect mixing of old and new fluid. Towards the end the oil coming out was noticeably lighter in colour.

Plan is to run for another 10K then drop pan, fit new filter, and refill with a fresh oil charge in the pan first, then do the same pump out/in flush to minimise the amount of old/new oil mixing. Will aim for 10L again (say 4-5L from pan and 5-6L from the flush).

Should then be good for another 60-80K.

I just do a basic drain and refill at every service now. Seems to keep on top of the contamination levels ok. Works out around 4-5L at a change and I use penrite BMV now so a lot cheaper than LG6. I tried a full flush a while ago (would have been around 15L flushed through the trans) and there was still significant quantity of the old oil in the trans that could be picked up in the next oil sample.

This is also a smart way to go Shane.

Especially after doing a good flush first to remove the prior years of build up as you have done.

Add a transmission cooler and it would be the perfect combination - gearbox would probably outlast the engine.

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Originally Posted by shanegtr

I just do a basic drain and refill at every service now. Seems to keep on top of the contamination levels ok. Works out around 4-5L at a change and I use penrite BMV now so a lot cheaper than LG6.

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I do a basic change every second engine oil change - so in my case every 20,000km. I use LG6 and buy it on sale days from Repco so works out about $25 a litre - about the same price as the Nulon engine oil I use.

Unless you do a mega flush, a normal flush is not a lot better than a simple dump and fill.

Garry

Its been about 45000km since my VB rebuild, new filter steel pan, duoprene gasket and BMV fill etc. Checked fluid level and colour just before our Albany trip last week. fluid is clear. Trans is happy. Will check again at 60,000km, probably change at 80,000 if i still have the car....

To those who are using Penrite BMV is it compatible with the lifeguard 6 oil or did you run some sort of flushing agent thru the gearbox first.

Bulletman