No way! It's what you carry the esky in[wink11]
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The GAP tool is pretty well invaluable. The results that it throws up may not necessarily point direct to the problem though, you have to interpret what is going on to work out the likely cause.
You need the workshop manual and wiring diagrams. The dealer training notes also give an understanding of the relationship between the computers and the can bus systems. Good hunting. BTW there is a lot of good information on this site.
I'm in Balwyn and if someone can help with a reset until the tool arrives, it would be appreciated.
Im trying to order the tool from Duckworths but not having much luck at the minute, something about the website is being redeveloped. Couldn't get the damn glove box out tonight so I'm probably going to cut those glove box pins and order new ones. Just want to get all the water in the front issues resolved so I can see if anything changes.
I assume you have watched this:
LR3 Glove Box Removal without Land Rover Special Tool - YouTube
I have. Its the internal diameter thats the issue. I have 4mm internal pipe, not 6mm that is listed in the video.
I'll make some calls in the morning, if i cant solve it easily I'll cut them and worry about it later. Removing the internal fuse board and replacing the last sun roof drain followed by checking for any other water damage to the electric's feels more important than hinges that will probably only cost a few bucks. Mind you, I'll probably call Ritters and check that I can get them first.
Lets see and thanks for sending the video.
It's now 5 days since I repaired that damaged canbus wire and still no faults. Although the continuity checks were good, the canbus wire with the damaged insulation seems to have caused my problems. When that wire was shaken I could generate all of the DTCs.
Now I'm waiting for some trim fasteners to be delivered and I'll be road testing.
One more query though. The EGR system has been blanked off. Is there a way to stop the EGR fault code from being logged?