8 SPEED AUTO WON'T CHANGE UP

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Originally Posted by Tombie

It’s not quite right, he’s missed the major bit.
This is 6 speed version of same.

Requires box adaptations to be reset.

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Thanks - I was aware of the process for the 6-speed to re-learn adaptions but I might try the 15-second reset to see if it will hang onto 1st gear longer.

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

Yes, definitely did it twice prior fitting the I-drive, and when the missus pinched it the other day to nip up from our shack to visit a girlfriend I put the I-drive back to "zero" as she doesn't like the action. She stays out of trouble re accidents but is not much of a driver re techniques and won't listen when I try to explain how to use the paddles if it ever does it again..............

Re the tranny re-set, you can Google (from memory) "Disco 4 re-set", but here is what you do.
(BMW also say same with the ZF in their cars.)

PROCEDURE FOR MEMORY RESET ON ZF TRANS: In this order.

Press start button to switch ignition on but DON'T start engine.
Press accelerator to floor and hold it there.
After approx 15 seconds, switch off ignition.
Lift your foot off accelerator.
Wait 2 minutes before starting the engine.


It made a noticeable difference to the smoothness of shifts and it was pretty good before, anyway.
There are others much more knowledgeable than me on this Forum who work on these cars every day and who may like to add comment.

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That’s driver adaptations - used to reset for hire cars as different drivers train the transmission differently.


Stop nannying the engine though - you aren’t doing it any favours. Soot etc

Pretty sure the two resets (the base adaption reset as Tombie described and the pedal reset as Discodicky described) do different things.

Tombie’s process will recalibrated the clutch packs to account for wear and is the full adaption reset process, whilst the simpler pedal reset just reverts the shift points to being more aggressive (sporty) but the gearbox will relearn your driving style pretty quickly.

Edit: I see Tombie confirmed same in the time I was typing my post [emoji106]

Engine(?) driver adaptions vs gbox clutchpack adaptions...
I'll still try it.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Engine(?) driver adaptions vs gbox clutchpack adaptions...
I'll still try it.

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Graeme - be very wary of doing a full base adaptions reset. It should only be done under certain conditions, and if not done properly will make the the gearbox shift much worse than it was.

The driver adaptions (pedal) reset is the only one I would do unless the ZF maintenance procedure calls for a base adaptions reset after doing specific work.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

That’s driver adaptations - used to reset for hire cars as different drivers train the transmission differently.


Stop nannying the engine though - you aren’t doing it any favours. Soot etc

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Fair comment but can't see much point in driving an engine out of its torque range.

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Originally Posted by Milton477

That seems a bit high for a 26 deg day, way too high actually. Is that read from from a GAP tool?

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From my Scanguage which fits in the OBD2 port.

Was working very hard towing a 3.0 Tonne (3.1 actually) 21ft caravan shaped like a brick.
Some headwind on occasions.
The temps dropped very quickly as soon as I either went down the hill or just took the load off the engine on a level road.
Engine rpm circa 2200-2600 occasionally higher depending on situation.

At 90-100 kph on hwy the temps were middle 90's

Long downhill no load they'd drop to 85 ish engine and 90 trans.

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

Fair comment but can't see much point in driving an engine out of its torque range.

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Here’s the point - doing it occasionally yet regularly blows the crap out!

And when towing, rpm will help keep it cooler not labouring.

They have a relativity flat torque curve due to variable turbos and common rail fuel injection, let it sing.. The non change up is weird, have you tried throwing a brake light switch at it? Mine does similar behaviour occasionally on the way home from work. Lazy driving with a size 12 work boot. Engages the brake pedal enough to cause trouble. Doesn't usually trigger a fault. I'm aware of it now and it doesn't happen.

Also, get your battery load tested, that voltage is usually only because the car is trying to save the battery. Or a dead battery has been changed but the battery system hasn't been reset.