Securing false floor for a fridge slide

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Originally Posted by Macadamia

The only think I need help working out is how to secure the back end. do people use the tiedown loop or the bolt securing the tiedown loop or install someone else completely? a big enough barrel bolt or padbolt could reach the tiedown loops? What do people use?

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Because you're only putting in a base board you can cut it full size, drill holes and use (I think) M8 bolts and large washers to screw down into the hold down points. The full size base board can be tilted to get it in the space, if you had draws etc the base cannot be tilted to get it in.

My Fourby Fitouts setup discards the original floor and has a piano hinged flap under the fridge to access underneath.
I’ve noticed too that once I fold the centre seats flat that I can reach well under to the rear to get at stuff, mostly things I hardly ever use.
cheers
David

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Originally Posted by Macadamia

Have a read of my plan and let me know if it's a vastly bad idea.

I want to attach a fridge slide directly to the false floor to make getting the fridge in and out easier. I know there are better options - namely draws + slides - but I want to avoid draws to keep boot space and I want to maintain [semi] accessibility to the storage space behind the rear seat and where the jack and tools are stored.

To support the weight of the fridge/slide securely, I want to install latches at the red sites to hold the false floor in place. This will only be to support the fridge on the slide, I will still use a strap over the fridge to the factory tiedowns when off-road for added security.

Question is can - what is the material under the green arrows? It feels like mdf similar to the false floor panels. If so can I safely put a couple of self tapping wood screws ~1-2cm into these areas without hitting anything critical?

Attachment 169526

Any other thoughts?

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Try this. I have a full width false floor. It is angled up at the rear using tapered slats under the ply. If you don't taper it up, the fridge will foul on the tailgate when sliding out. I use the existing LR tie downs to hold the ply down. A simple Z bracket does the trick. Make them strong, you don't want the floor with fridge attached breaking loose. The Z brackets on the front of the floor will have to be shorter, as the floor is thinner due to the taper at the front. A bit of trial and error, or use washers to space them as required. The LR allen bolts are quite long, so no issues with strength. The floor can be removed in a few minutes My fridge slide is mounted over the top of the gaping hole on the left. I use T nuts in the ply for anchors. I cannot recall the post ( it was years ago ) but there is a timber floor and drawer project on this site. This is the floor, but the drawers were removed years ago to save weight.


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Originally Posted by ADMIRAL

Try this. I have a full width false floor. It is angled up at the rear using tapered slats under the ply. If you don't taper it up, the fridge will foul on the tailgate when sliding out. I use the existing LR tie downs to hold the ply down. A simple Z bracket does the trick. Make them strong, you don't want the floor with fridge attached breaking loose. The Z brackets on the front of the floor will have to be shorter, as the floor is thinner due to the taper at the front. A bit of trial and error, or use washers to space them as required. The LR allen bolts are quite long, so no issues with strength. The floor can be removed in a few minutes My fridge slide is mounted over the top of the gaping hole on the left. I use T nuts in the ply for anchors. I cannot recall the post ( it was years ago ) but there is a timber floor and drawer project on this site. This is the floor, but the drawers were removed years ago to save weight.

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Well done. Obviously there is a difference between the D3 and D4 as mine is not angled up at the rear and the fridge slide opens above the lower tailgate (just!).