Printable View
My first week at Base Workshop, changing the oil on a IIA, standing on the bar filling it up, stepped down and promptly went A over T on the pool of oil on the ground. Much mirth from those around me..... Never forgot the bung ever again though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
I would also suggest using your phone to photograph anything you are not totally familiar with to aid in re-assembly.
Been there, done that Tins. One of my first mistakes when servicing a taxi moons back. Head mechanic walked past me and said “Take a lot of oil, don’t they. Look down.”
So I did and there it was running between my feet and out the garage door and down the road gutter.😁
AlanH.
Was your face as red as mine? Still, mistakes are the best way to learn, if they don't kill you.Quote:
Originally Posted by ATH
Are you guys the reason we use vac pumps now? :-)
A certain generation would need counselling if this happened to them, as a mistake like that would have to be made by someone else as they surely could not be at fault.[biggrin]
So to finally close this out, for any future budding mechanical novices thinking of attempting…
It’s honestly dead easy.
You’ll need a 32mm socket for the oil filter housing, and I used a vac pump for the oil itself.
Sucked the oil out, undid the filter and changed it out. Torque to 28Nm
Then refilled with 5w30 enviro+ synthetic oil.
Minor concern, when before starting the car the dash oil level showed ‘below minimum’. So, rather than cranking her over, I changed the air filter and cabin filter.
Recheck the oil level, and now showing as all good. Started her up, and she is purring away again.
For the sake of completeness I also checked the oil level using IID tool, but more because I had it, and not because this was a necessary step.
Old oil back into the container the new oil came in, ready to drop off.
A small investment needed to get the tools if you don’t have them, but I can now change oil much cheaper and faster than using a mechanic.
I think I also feel a little closer to the old girl, like we’re a team now :-)
Whilst in there did you reset the service counter [emoji41]
Hi all.
Long time lurker, new subscriber. 2015MY SDV6 SE non-DPF 130K kms.
I’m also looking at doing my own servicing, due to having more time than money.
I was hoping someone here would be able to confirm the correct oil for my front and rear non-locking diffs. I read that Castrol saf-xo has been supersede by Syntrax long life 75w-90, but the Repco site says it’s not suitable for my vehicle. A quick search through the Aulro archives indicates that it is in fact the correct oil, so I take it that Repco is wrong.
Also, my local Ford dealership sold me Motorcraft AXO 5W30-APFD, which is fully synthetic and meets Ford spec WSS-M2C913-D. Land Rover obviously specify -C, but according to oilspecifications.org-D ‘is especially recommended for Diesel engines where M2C913-B or M2C913-C oils were initially required’. Has anyone used, or could comment on this oil?
Given the discussion around blown engines, I don’t want to risk using the wrong oil. However if the Motorcraft is suitable, at $150/20Lt it is a pretty good buy. If not, I’ll return it. I know a lot of you use Penrite so that would be an option, or is Castrol Edge Professional so much better that it’s worth $24/Lt?
Thanks for any advice
Disco Simon
Penrite Pro gear 75-90w full synthetic is the go, about $60 for 2.5l which is enough for both diffs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Simon
Thanks Loanrangie.
With regards to the engine oil, I’ve managed to source the Castrol Edge Professional for a half decent price, so will return the Motorcraft oil.
Disco Simon