Thread: Self service

Go for it. Start simple and as you gain confidence work your way up. If you are taking the vehicle off road and /or remote the more knowledge you have about the vehicle the better.

Before I had the D3, I didn't do any work on my cars. Now I'm not changing timing belts yet, but I have changed the alternator, hub assemblies, coolant crossover assembly, EAS compressor, valve blocks, air springs and other suspension components, brake rotors and pads, oil, fuel, air and cabin filters. Can bleed the fuel and coolant system. A GAP diagnostic tool or such is recommended. I have been able diagnose and rectify a number of problems which have paid for it and more.

Get a manual and with Youtube and forums like AULRO you should be set. If I can do it anyone can.

I don't know about the 3.0l but the 2.7l oil filter is a cartridge type. it has a section protruding from the bottom that needs to fit into a hole at the bottom of the filter case. It seems quite obvious but there are reports of filters being fitted without being seated properly. When the casing is screwed down the filter has been crushed leading to major engine damage.

I have been getting my service components from Island 4x4 in the UK.

I've done all servicing including replacing lower front control arms on the D4, but I had an Indy do the timing belts (and fit an alloy coolant junction, new water pump and idlers at the same time). I've also fitted all accessories like bullbar and winch, EAS emergency kit, Traxide system with significant mods, ProSpeed roof rack and rock sliders, ARB twin compressor and solar panels plus various other stuff.
I'm no-one's idea of a mechanic and I seek advice from real ones (and this forum) but if you're reasonably mechanical and electrical literate and are prepared to take it slow and easy and refer to manuals etc., then I'd say go for it. But I can tell you that a D4 is a steep learning curve from even the P38a or later Classics. Oh! And a diagnostic tool like a Gap (preferred here) or Nanocomm (preferred by me) is essential as is a comprehensive set of tools.

Changing oil is easy with the vacuum pump, as are all the filters except for the fuel filter which is tricky to get to and I leave that to my Indy. I do every 2nd service at 13K intervals and the Indy does a major service. I get parts from Rovacraft Perth

FYI, I've bought my last two oil filters for the 3.0 litre engine from REPCO.
They are the genuine MANN cartridge filters p/n HU826 X (which come in a L/Rover box when bought from the Dealer) and very reasonably priced. (I get Trade price, which was $10.91 plus gst in Feb this year).
I use Penrite Enviro + C1 engine oil also from REPCO.

I am a mechanic, but the aulro manual is awesome.


I use penrite full syn, man and Hummel filters from anywhere, I use a fumoto oil drain and a hole through my sump plate to make it fast and clean..

Start slow, the best thing is to start feeling everything under the car and get used to what if should feel like..I rotate tyres every service too. Good way to check bearings and brakes wiring hoses etc

Go for it veebs, easy as. A 9 l vac pump is about 25 bucks (be careful what you google, (breast pumps dont come in 9l as far as i know...) i get my filters etc from the uk suppliers rimmers, islamd, advanced factors etc, but good to know local stores are stocking mann filters too.

I do most myself and leave the really hard jobs to my indie ( turbos etc), i find these cars good to work on given how complex they are.

Thanks guys - will give it a crack. What could possibly go wrong right?

Love that local filters are available - much easier than international transport.

Originally Posted by veebs

Thanks guys - will give it a crack. What could possibly go wrong right?

Love that local filters are available - much easier than international transport.

The single, most important advice I can offer…

Double check everything you worked on BEFORE you go to start it or drive it.

(Many a person has got distracted during and oil change for instance and forgotten to refill or even fit a drain plug back on)