Tailgate release switch failure, replacement options?

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Originally Posted by BradC

I've done that twice (RZ350 & R6), but I was single both times :)

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Would 1 more make it a hat-trick?, loved my RZ350 but wrote it off when a SMIDSY turned in front of me back in the early 90's.

I had to look it up, a SMIDSY is Sorry Mate I Didn't See You, recently I have heard BANANA Build Absolutely Nothing Anywhere Near Anyone and CAVE Citizens Against Virtually Everything.

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Would 1 more make it a hat-trick?, loved my RZ350 but wrote it off when a SMIDSY turned in front of me back in the early 90's.

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Probably. I have a Ducati 748 & 996 on the go to round it up to 4, but that’s a bit down the life priority list.

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Originally Posted by Jeffoir

Yes, this happened to me today in the D4.

I replaced the switch in our D3 about 7 years ago. At the time, I recall that the removal of the handpiece was a destructive exercise. The plastic clips break off, rendering trying to service the microswitch irrelevant.

I enquired about spares today. For the D4, Land Rover only supply it as part of the whole assembly including numberplate lights etc. Quoted $538, which is way too expensive.

In the meantime, the tailgate will open, when pressing Keyfob and activating the hand switch at the tailgate, simultaneously.

Thank you Scott for the Ford Focus suggestion. Jefferson Ford said that the Focus Part is now obsolete from Ford. No longer stocked.

I have ordered a Discovery Mk3 / Mk4 (sic) tailgate switch from eBay at the Link that Tombie provided in this thread. $31.00 delivered Sydney. Up to 10 days delivery time. Just perfect.

If I do not report back, you can assume that it all went well.

As always, the decision support provided at the Forum is superb. Thank you everyone.

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Hi Everyone,
you know where I said above…, “if I do not report back, it went well…”
Well, I’m reporting back. it did NOT go well.

As a reminder, the key fob will actuate the lock, so I am not stuck or locked out, but I wish to fix it.

The new switch is installed with soldered wires. Nice and firm. Could not see any corrosion.
there is 12volts to the wire, but it will not acctuate the lock.

I pulled the tailgate handle / taillight assembly out to check things. It all looks good.

I pulled the lower tailgate covers off to check things. All good there. The grey foam had been cut, so I suspect previous owner had replaced the actuator.

Could I please ask for suggestions on cause and guidance for next steps?

thank you all.

PS: I loved how the thread took a short detour on to motorbike rebuilds in the TV Room. Made me smile. Nice looking bike. Well done.

you will remember Josh Huber from the Forum. I dropped in to see him a year ago. He was rebuilding a Ducati. I can’t remember the model number. I asked Josh if it was “best in class?” In a typical Josh response, he just said: “it is the class!”

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Originally Posted by Jeffoir

there is 12volts to the wire, but it will not acctuate the lock.

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Ok. You have 2 wires. One has 12V on it from the BCU and the other is ground. When you push the switch, does the 12V wire go to ground?

If you short the wire with the 12V on it to chassis, the lock should actuate. If that's not happening then the problem is upstream. If it remains at 12V when you push the switch then the problem is either the switch, or the other side of the switch which should be connected to the chassis (ground).

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Originally Posted by BradC

Ok. You have 2 wires. One has 12V on it from the BCU and the other is ground. When you push the switch, does the 12V wire go to ground?

If you short the wire with the 12V on it to chassis, the lock should actuate. If that's not happening then the problem is upstream. If it remains at 12V when you push the switch then the problem is either the switch, or the other side of the switch which should be connected to the chassis (ground).

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Thank you Brad,

Edited: I removed the entire upper tailgate handle assembly.
Then, using my multi meter, I did some continuity testing and one of the original, thin LR wires, lacked continuity. I replaced both of them. On stripping the wire back, I found corrosion. See the photo. On one of the black wires you can see green corrosion powder.

Replacing the wire solved the problem. The tailgate now operates.

Thank you and best wishes to all,
Jeffoir.

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Great job, do you intend to get it dirty again ?

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Yes! Maiden run was last weekend. Tuning to get the jetting right. It was very difficult to start on purchase but with new carby and complete wiring restoration it is starting and running beautifully now. Basically it came home and was stripped. Took gamble engine internals were good and gearbox ok from that one test ride and that looks to be the case.

I bought a 92 XR600 brand new and sold it probably 4 years later for the next thing but have missed it ever since. This is a 93 build 94 model but tank sticker is 91 and seat 92 style my personal favourites.

It will get ridden around the trails and tracks of the SW and good for another 30+ years. Amazing grunty single pot air cooled bikes with a fantastic exhaust note.

Before and After

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...12e57d249a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...612b654faf.jpg