I would agree - every fault known to man comes up with a faulty alternator.
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I would agree - every fault known to man comes up with a faulty alternator.
Good thought but alternator replaced about 12 months ago. Also car starts absolutely fine every time.
Two interesting observations. When OBD2 device plugged in and testing battery with engine off: 10.0 -10.4 V (bad), engine running 14V.
When I go into "secret" menu on the UI and go to battery it also says 10.2V (when engine off). This makes me think that there might be an issue with the battery monitoring or battery management module.
Hopefully LR with their SDD software can sort this out and not break the bank.
.. have you downloaded a copy of the Workshop Manual?
It's about 5,000 pages long and has pretty much everything in it you'll want to know .. including complete electrical diagrams.
If you have the time, look at the various faults you are getting in relationship to the electrical circuits and you may find a commonality ... especially with regard to a common earth point.
(FYI D4 Manual: My Files)
UPDATE
So its all fixed (I think). Long story that I will lay out in point form. As I can't criticise businesses I will simply state the facts for people to make up their mind. At the end of the day, all the comments made in the thread were correct.
- out of exasperation I took the vehicle to the LR dealer here in the south of Tasmania.
- I explained everything that was happening in writing including that the service screen was saying the battery voltage was low (10.2 volts) with the engine off.
- For $400 they diagnosed a broken bluetooth module, a broken keyless vehicle module, a broken bonnet latch, a broken turning headlight, and an intact electrical system.
- After rebooking the repairs they replaced all of the above ($1K for each of the modules)
-All was good for about 1 week when it started again (bluetooth still worked and bonnet latch and alarm fixed, but car still not starting randomly and flickering headlights and adaptive headlight warning still going off).
- return to dealer. $400 to have the car for a week and not find anything wrong.
- I became fixed on the concept of a short and the earth connection. I have limited abilities but the earth behind the relay fuse box looked dodgy. I tried but could not work out how to get to it.
- Took the vehicle to auto electrician (Tony Bennett/EFI Hobart), who within 1/2 an hour was on the phone to me describing the MELTED earth connection
- quick and cheap fix and the car now behaves perfectly. Lights, starting, bluetooth etc. Voltage is reading as it should which is most satisfying.
- So the earth was the problem after all, as postulated by many in this thread. I'm disappointed I didn't have the technical abilities to pursue this myself from the beginning. I'm also disappointed that this basic stuff wasn't picked up by those I paid $$$ who should have known better.
Thanks everyone and I hope this post helps somebody in the future.
Andrew
So you paid the dealer the $400 to diagnose a range of issues and had that work done.
Car still faulty so you pay another $400 to the dealer again - why did you pay this if the car wasn't fixed first time?
Problem turned out to be an earth - have you taken the car back to the dealer to get the unnecessary modules taken out and the old ones put back in at their expense and get a refund for all the unnecessary work.
Yes I am naive - but on more than one occasion I have done exactly what I suggested above.
Yes sounds pretty stupid of me doesn’t it. As you can imagine, the circumstances weren’t quite like that. The second trip was made on the basis of the first being misdiagnosed and incorrectly treated. They would not release the vehicle until I had paid the $400. FYI the second time they suggested I replace the low pressure fuel pump and relay for $1300 as it had thrown off code, I obviously declined and asked for the car back. I was acting in good faith and It’s a sad sad state of affairs.