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Thread: ZF 8-speed transmission fluid?

  1. #1
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    ZF 8-speed transmission fluid?

    Looking to do a transmission fluid change in the near future on my 2013 D4 SDV6 8-speed using Nulon Low Viscosity Multi Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (LVSYNATF) and wondering if anyone can see ANY reason I should not use this fluid. Looked at the ZF Lifeguard Fluid but it is obscenely expensive and the Nulon product says that it's as good or better than 'Lifeguard 8' and I can get a 20L drum of it for $227.
    The only potential problem I can see is that if its the original fluid in it, it will most likely be semi-synthetic .. whereas the Nulon is fully-synthetic.
    My intention is to use the entire 20L to help flush the old fluid out, but there could still be some old remaining and I'm not sure if the blend will be an issue. I don't think so.
    If possible I'll try to use a pressure dispenser like the MITYVAC Fluid evacuator and feed it through the fluid cooler connections.
    Any advice from others who have already done this would be appreciated.

    Link to ZF spec: https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemed...fluid-8-it.pdf

    Link to Nulon spec: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/au...-low-viscosity
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  2. #2
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    If you do a search on here, you will see the guys that work on these all the time, only use genuine.

    Still a lot cheaper than the cost of gear box issues.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    Looking to do a transmission fluid change in the near future on my 2013 D4 SDV6 8-speed using Nulon Low Viscosity Multi Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (LVSYNATF) and wondering if anyone can see ANY reason I should not use this fluid. Looked at the ZF Lifeguard Fluid but it is obscenely expensive and the Nulon product says that it's as good or better than 'Lifeguard 8' and I can get a 20L drum of it for $227.
    The only potential problem I can see is that if its the original fluid in it, it will most likely be semi-synthetic .. whereas the Nulon is fully-synthetic.
    My intention is to use the entire 20L to help flush the old fluid out, but there could still be some old remaining and I'm not sure if the blend will be an issue. I don't think so.
    If possible I'll try to use a pressure dispenser like the MITYVAC Fluid evacuator and feed it through the fluid cooler connections.
    Any advice from others who have already done this would be appreciated.

    Link to ZF spec: https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemed...fluid-8-it.pdf

    Link to Nulon spec: Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid Low Viscosity (LVSYNATF) - Nulon Products Australia
    Coincidence, today I just changed the auto oil on my MY13 D4 8 speed.
    50,000 klms ago (at 102,000 klms) I switched to Penrite BMV purchased from REPCO at vastly cheaper price than ZF8 oil.
    It was the first auto oil change the car had in its service history.

    After several trips during recent past summer towing my 3.0T caravan around hilly Tassy and on my Scanguage seeing the auto oil regularly reach 106 degrees I decided to change it "early".
    The colour was perfect and in hindsight it was probably a waste of time/money.

    The oil has behaved perfectly over this time contrary to what many naysayers were claiming that the BMV would cause all sorts of problems.
    Many on this Forum use BMV for excellent results.
    It is FULL synthetic and the data sheet specifically states it is for L/Rover, R/Rover, Jaguar, BMW Aston Martin etc all using ZF tranny's.

    There are several auto oils out there that DON'T cut the mustard and will cause shudders and other problems, but Penrite BMV is definitely ok in my experience and opinion.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  4. #4
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    The risk of using BMV is diminishing in my mind as the evidence of successful use increases.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    Coincidence, today I just changed the auto oil on my MY13 D4 8 speed.
    50,000 klms ago (at 102,000 klms) I switched to Penrite BMV purchased from REPCO at vastly cheaper price than ZF8 oil.
    It was the first auto oil change the car had in its service history.

    After several trips during recent past summer towing my 3.0T caravan around hilly Tassy and on my Scanguage seeing the auto oil regularly reach 106 degrees I decided to change it "early".
    The colour was perfect and in hindsight it was probably a waste of time/money.

    The oil has behaved perfectly over this time contrary to what many naysayers were claiming that the BMV would cause all sorts of problems.
    Many on this Forum use BMV for excellent results.
    It is FULL synthetic and the data sheet specifically states it is for L/Rover, R/Rover, Jaguar, BMW Aston Martin etc all using ZF tranny's.

    There are several auto oils out there that DON'T cut the mustard and will cause shudders and other problems, but Penrite BMV is definitely ok in my experience and opinion.
    Great coincidence for me.
    What type of fluid change did you do?
    Did you just drop the pan or did you do a complete fluid change through the transmission cooler connections as you'd be lucky to get 30-40% changed through dropping the pan.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    Great coincidence for me.
    What type of fluid change did you do?
    Did you just drop the pan or did you do a complete fluid change through the transmission cooler connections as you'd be lucky to get 30-40% changed through dropping the pan.
    Multiple fluid changes fix that.
    You are diluting by about 50% each time so 3-4 or so changes get the vast bulk of old fluid out.
    I personally don't trust a mechanical flush

  7. #7
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    ZF

    ZF trans fluid can be sourced from Germany and US Inc freight for half the Aus cost and only took 16 days to get here

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    The risk of using BMV is diminishing in my mind as the evidence of successful use increases.
    I agree, I've been a LG devote but as more time goes by the BMV is looking very good. Which is great.
    Gone 05 D3 ARB Front Kaymar Rear Winch E-Diff LRA Tank Dual Battery

    Current 2015 SDV6 SE. Tow Pro Mitch Hitch Llams C/motives 70ltr w/tank 2 x comp Traxide BMS-2 x Aux 150w Solar Uniden Engel ARB drawer F/Runner rack Light bar

  9. #9
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    As I haven't done a transmission fluid change on the new (old) 2013 D4 as yet ... is there still a problem with the one piece trans cover/filter that was very difficult to remove because of the cross member.
    I know it was an issue on the 6-speed .. but has that been fixed now on the 8-speed or is an 'upgraded' cover and separate filter still required?
    I've had a quick look under the vehicle and it does have a 'plastic' transmission sump.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    Great coincidence for me.
    What type of fluid change did you do?
    Did you just drop the pan or did you do a complete fluid change through the transmission cooler connections as you'd be lucky to get 30-40% changed through dropping the pan.
    Didn't bother dropping the pan this time as the oil was so clean, so just changed it twice with approx 40klm run between changes.
    As it was so clean I didn't bother changing a 3rd time.

    For what it's worth I am a great believer of Wynns products and have run their auto oil additive since the first change at 102,000
    Among other deeds it prevents oil frothing and also prevents oil seals and "O" rings from hardening due to age and oil temp heat.

    It was the only "thing" which (in an earlier life of mine!) kept Borg Warner 35 auto transmissions going in Austin 1800 cars back in the middle/late 1960's as they didn't have an auto oil cooler and were prone to problems such as "O" rings and clutch pack piston & band servo seals going rock hard due to excessive auto oil temps.
    I rebuilt literally dozens of those tranny's and proved to myself beyond doubt that Wynns Auto oil additive improved their life span.

    If you simply change yours two or three times with a few klms between changes I'm sure that will be sufficient particularly if the first change comes out clean ish.

    You'll use around 14-15 litres oil (for 3 times change) and it comes in 4 litre packs.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

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