Nice video Tim,
If you think it needs shortening, you could cut some of the re-assembly parts.
Printable View
Looks good. Hopefully you’ll mention to not connect the earth terminal until all the work is done.
Also, a video explaining the lighting sequence for the USI-160 would be a great help. So far I only have mine down for normal and I think up for when the fridge is on. A video will help to explain this better than the PDF.
Hi Tim
Sorry I didn't get back to you and to highjack your thread yet again, but hopefully my issue may now resolver if below is correct.
History
I have your D4-2U system recently fitted (no winch requirement), and unless I'm missing something, the dash flashing LED is a bit different to my previous D2 USI 160 with winch arrangement, and I didn't find any further info on your website. Just to clarify, I'm getting a 2 per second red LED flashing.
After a fortnight of the above, I fiddled and moved the control switch to and away from the LED a few times.
With the switch in the away position, I now have 5 quick reds and a longer green whilst driving, and for the moment 4 quick reds and a green with ignition only on.
After all closed down I have the 5 reds and 1 longer green irrespective of switch being on or off.
If still something is not right (given that the auto electrician installer is still learning some of the LR intricacies/quirks), let me know and I'll call you at a convenient to you time (if you ever get such a thing).
Your support of LR and AULRO is legendary.
Cheers Gavin in the west
Hi Gavin and something is very wrong.
You must not have a USI-160.
It is either an SC80-BM or DT90.
If you get this in time, you can phone me tonight.
You are in WA so not too late for you but I will wait for your call, or phone me tomorrow.
PLEASE NOTE, use my new phone number.
0401 404 844.
We should be able to get this sorted pretty quickly.
Regards, Tim.
Hi Tim
I am just about to push the button on getting one of your kits (no interest in winching capability so leaning towards the SC80 rather than the USI160).
Just wanted to find out though what size battery am I constrained to with your battery tray and the space in the D4. We have a 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE.
Regards
Goldey
Hi Tim, I noticed in the video (~22min) that you feed the main power cable between the plastic wheel arch cover and bodywork, is this an update as there is more room to run the cable there? In the instructions I received the cable was simply tucked under the plastic wheel arch cover but there is a very tight area where the cable doesn’t go in very far.
I’m about to run 6mm twin core for a brake controller and thinking of running both cables between the plastic wheel arch cover and bodywork.
Thanks
Deanhttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...27b165ae59.jpg
Hi Dean, the video is based on the latest info supplied to me ( about two years ago now ) by customer feedback.
The cable can still be tucked up under the plastic wheel arch cover, but there is easier access for the cable when run in the gap between the plastic wheel arch cover and the metal mount used to secure the door seal rubber to.
The Video has all the alterations supplied to me in feedback from many customers.
This is now the easiest and quickest version of the D4-5S kit to fit.
Hi Goldey, the new tray was modified last year and can now fit an 85Ah battery.
The battery part number is SSB HVT-70LD
Note there is an HVT-70D and an HVT-70LD, both will fit, but the HVT-70LD has the terminals located at the back of the battery and this gives it a slightly better clearance.
With the new bigger auxiliary battery you will now have around 125Ah available for your accessories.