Hi Josh, if you have one of my older stainless steel trays, just remove the tray and bend the ends down flat.
These are the two short ends, not the front and back sections.
Until i brought my new fridge I was thinking about upping my capacity. How much for a new tray for an old system Tim??
Hi Josh, if you have one of my older stainless steel trays, just remove the tray and bend the ends down flat.
These are the two short ends, not the front and back sections.
So Gavin got in contact with me and after a quick couple of tests, my preference for owners to fit their own systems was proven.
Gavin’s problem was caused by the auto elec who had PARTIALLY installed Gavin’s Traxide kit.
Gavin had purchased the kit some time before the kit’s cabling was modified to allow for the use of the larger auxiliary battery, but Gavin had purchased the new bigger auxiliary battery and given to lot to the auto electrician to fit.
But by fitting the new bigger auxiliary battery meant that one cable, running from the isolator to the auxiliary battery’s positive ( + ) terminal, was 10cm shorter than needed.
So the auto elec just didn’t bother to make a slightly longer cable, and just left the cable unconnected?????????????.
Fortunately, the isolator indicated to Gavin that he had a problem.
PLEASE FOLKS, these kits are easy to fit, and the new kits are even easier to fit, plus there is now the video to help, and the kits are specifically designed for DIYers to fit themselves.
Plus I am just a phone call away if you need assistance.
My bro and I were extremely impressed. 2 minutes on the phone to Tim and he diagnosed the problem (which was hidden under another wire so the uninitiated could not see it). The man is a dead set legend, quite apart from being such a strong supporter of aulro and we mad LR types.
MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Hi again folks and if you buy one of my kits, please fit the kit yourself.
A short time ago I had a call from a customer who had bought his kit a few months back, and had an auto electrician fit the kit for him.
He was getting ready for a big trip.
He is now on his big trip and the morning after this first night camping, his fridge had turned off during the night.
He rang me as he thought the fridge should have run for a few days. Which it should!
Checked to make sure the switch on In-Cab module was set correctly, set away from the LED, and it was and he told me they had done 6 hours of driving the day before.
He has two BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitors fitted. one on each battery, and they were showing both batteries were sitting at 12.4v
So the fridge should still be running?
He told me he had the auto elec fit his kit and got the auto elec to fit the new power socket, that is supplied with the kit, mounted on the same side, and next to the original Land Rover power socket.
I asked him which socket his fridge was plugged into?
It was in the Land Rover power socket.
I suggested that may be this socket had not been rewired!
5 minutes after the first phone call, he rings me back and tells me he jumped in the back of his D4 and and locked it.
Sure enough, the fridge stopped.
He moved the fridge plug to the new socket and it started up again.
He had planned to use both sockets while camping but will now be restricted to only one socket while camping till he gets home and rewires the original socket.
I’m lost for words. How can a so called professional do such a slack job.
If you fit these kits yourself, you will not be caught short.
Hi Tim, I had a look at running cable in the gap but found that the plastic trim has support legs that sit hard against the metal chassis and occupy most of the available room (see picture). I placed a small piece of 6B&S twin core in the gap and it occupied most of the room (see picture), thought it might interfere with the door seal replacement. If 6B&S twin core fits I can’t see there would be any additional room for further cables. I also found it hard to feed the yellow tongue from the jack compartment to the gap in the passenger door, kept getting caught on components (keyless entry module ?). Managed to feed the yellow tongue the other way from the passengers door gap to the jack compartment. So in the end I preferred (found it easier) to just tuck the cable up under the plastic wheel arch cover. So am I missing something? Would love to hear your feedback.
Cheers,
Dean
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