Thread: Alternator SDV6, anyone upgraded for larger than stock 150A??

Put a clamp meter on it when it does this, that way you will know what the actual current draw is.

A 220A 4.4 TDV8 alternator can be made to fit if the TDV6's bracket is hollowed out to accommodate the slightly larger diameter housing and a TDV6 over-run pulley is fitted instead of the TDV8's fixed pulley. The alternator is a tight fit to the engine. Update the CCF to specify the higher output.

Originally Posted by Graeme

A 220A 4.4 TDV8 alternator can be made to fit if the TDV6's bracket is hollowed out to accommodate the slightly larger diameter housing and a TDV6 over-run pulley is fitted instead of the TDV8's fixed pulley. The alternator is a tight fit to the engine. Update the CCF to specify the higher output.

Mine had the 220A originally but the replacement was a 180A. I’ve not had any issues with multiple batteries on mine at 180A.

Edit: I run a tow pro elite as well.

My standard alternator (180amp?) in my RRS has not issues running the car and charging its battery, a 65litre fridge in to back, charging the camper 110Ah battery and running the camper three way fridge on 12v, and the all the lighting when driving at night.

I suspect the OP has an issue.

Garry

Hi Imaz, as posted by others, you will have either a 180 amp or 220 amp alternator.

Also as above, using a DC/DC device to charge batteries in a D4 actually limits the amount of current pulled from your alternator, so even with a 180 amp alternator, you are not drawing anywhere near what your alternator is capable of.

D3s and early 2.7L D4s all had 140 amp alternators and they have no problem charging an auxiliary battery under the bonnet and up to three large house batteries in a camper trailer or caravan, and this is without the need for a DC/DC device.

This means their alternators are running at a MUCH higher output than yours is and again, they have no problems fast charging their batteries in a MUCH shorter drive time compared to the driving time you need to do.

Your problem may well be your DC/DC device is not suitable for use or is not set up properly, with your D4’s SMART alternator operation. When your cranking battery is fully charged, and alternator reduces its output voltage, the lower alternator voltage may cause your DC/DC device to reduce its output charge current or it may turn off altogether.

As suggested above, you need to fit some form of voltage monitoring, to both your cranking battery and your other batteries.

BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitors would be the simplest way to do this and would be ideal for your situation, as they allow you to log all the voltages during a drive, and you can then study what has been going on when you were driving without you have to look at numerous meters while you are driving.

This is a much safer way to check what’s been happening during your drives, as there is a permanent record you can study at home at any time.

Originally Posted by imaz

As the title states, has anyone upgraded the stock 150A alternator for something greater?

The stock alternator is inadequate for supplying charge to multiple DCDC charger(~40 - 60amp additional load) and insufficiently supply power to Redarc Tow Pro Elite brake controller WHEN the DCDC charger is in Boost stage. Mine and 2 other vehicles with similar setup suffers the tow pro elite (red blinking) while dcdc is boost stage demand. Each of these vehicles had their installations installed by different installers. When the dcdc charger are out of boost stage, the Redarc tow pro elite will stop blinking and become normal state.

During this time, the brake controller do work normally.

There is no other reason why the dcdc and brake controller correlate other than insufficient power supply charge to the starting battery.

Redarc tow pro elite trouble shooting suggests it a ground issue, but the fact this happens in multiple D4, with various combination of setup is leading me to believe it’s alternator related.

150A is in the small side.

Also, if we charge the camper battery’s 100% using AC/DC before attaching to the D4, the Redarc tow pro brake controller do not suffer the issue, since the DCDC is in either absorption or float charge state.

150a is more than sufficient. Something is not right with your wiring of the brake controller. Where is it getting its feed supply?

I have a 50a DcDc, Redarc EBC and 2 driving lights which pull 50a when theyre on. Never have any issues maintaining charge in the system.

Originally Posted by Tombie

150a is more than sufficient. Something is not right with your wiring of the brake controller. Where is it getting its feed supply?

I have a 50a DcDc, Redarc EBC and 2 driving lights which pull 50a when theyre on. Never have any issues maintaining charge in the system.

The tow pro feed is directly from the starting battery with an 30amp auto circuit breaker. The other 2 d4 is also the same.

To reiterate the original post, the tow pro stabilises itself AFTER the camper battery is full/Absorbing/Float state. This behaviour applies to all 3x D4’s, some using Redarc dcdc, itech and enerdrive dcdc charger variations.

Originally Posted by imaz

The tow pro feed is directly from the starting battery with an 30amp auto circuit breaker. The other 2 d4 is also the same.

To reiterate the original post, the tow pro stabilises itself AFTER the camper battery is full/Absorbing/Float state. This behaviour applies to all 3x D4’s, some using Redarc dcdc, itech and enerdrive dcdc charger variations.

It just doesn’t make sense. So many of us use Tow pro and and charge batteries and have no issues. I was charging a 90ah starter with a 60ah aux plus 120ah house in the camper and never had an issue with my tow pro ever malfunctioning.

Your DCDC is just a current draw - and less than all my sources as yours is current limited by the DCDC whereas mine is unconstrained.

It makes no sense