Interesting. This was a question I asked Redarc if I should piggy back the camper dcdc FROM the Vechicles Aux Battery, and that was not advisable - Should be directly from the Starting battery. Should I rewire my Camper charger to feed from Aux battery as you have done, there would be no further concerns regarding the Alternator strain as you are only depleating the Vehicles Aux battery's.
That would explain why you’re suffering - that’s 70-90a from your primary battery immediately upon start up.
Just make sure you install/set the trigger point correctly. Don’t want it stripping the Aux in the vehicle when it’s not running.
As I posted above, my Van won’t activate the DcDc until the vehicle starts. The Victron then waits if the voltage on that circuit is still low before starting to charge - which occurs almost immediately after the under bonnet 50a DcDc starts.
This was all installed to move toward Lithium as I have a need for one of the aux battery locations under bonnet in the near future.
Hi again imaz, first off, you can NOT place a “strain” on your alternator.
All alternators, by the very way they work, are self-protecting against current overload. As yours has demonstrated when it lowered it voltage level because the current draw was greater than your alternator could produce while idling.
Next, as long as your auxiliary battery is NOT charged with a DC/DC device, you should have no problems charging your house batteries via the DC/DC device, as long as the DC/DC device is in with your house batteries.
I have hundreds of customers charging 3 large house batteries in their camper trailer or caravan, with no DC/DC device, which means they are drawing much more than your setup, and they have no problems.
What are you using to charge the auxiliary battery?
A drawing would make this thread so much better
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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