There is no “quick lifting” [emoji41]
Just quick damage [emoji56]
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Just yesterday o tried lifting 1 wheel of my D4 using a high lift jack and a wheel hook thingy. It was not successful at all. A standard high lifting bottle jack is definitely the way to go.
I’m going to sell my high lift jack and wheel lifting thingo
The only thing I use my hilift on is my Number 5 trailer.
The D3 gets a bottle jack - and I still have the useless original jack if I ever need it (or until it breaks!)
I like the fact I could lift using the Wheel adapter in Mud and similar off road stops where there can be almost no chance of getting under the car with a bottle jack. I have twice in my old d3 on the ARB bar. I had the chain saw cutting a suitable log to use to lower my D3 with before working on it. Got me out of a huge bog twice when no place to winch to was available[biggrin] I did also lift on my rock sliders in my former D3 putting MT 17 inchs on or off.
Sliders are as people point out a real slip risk. I had to have the door open as well to do it.
My replacement D3 has no sliders or bar lift points. Love the speed the hi lift jack provides myself if used with care[bigwhistle]. Put my wheel adapter to use twice in WA two years ago and its still on the roof rack on my replacement D3.
Yes raise the vehicle to super extended height and then use an appropriate jack under the chassis or put the jack under the suspension arms.
Without front and rear bars a hi lift jack will not work on a D4 and then they are very dangerous - the wheel lifts will not work as the jack ends up against the body causing damage.
At getting on of these. Apparently they have enough lift to get the D4 tire off the ground when jacking from the chassis
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