Air Suspension

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Originally Posted by Graeme

The WSM states that the evaporative canister must be removed. (further along from where I first stopped)

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Yes it did need removing as it was just way too tight to get the silencer past the cannister , you could possibly force it down below the silencer but its a strain on the connections.

Anyway I did remove the Emissions cannister and the connections ( 3 of them ) need soaking in WD40 or very soapy water as they are tight as, very awkward to remove but it has to come out.

Silencer cannister is out and will take a look at it tomorrow and check all the lines. Cannister does look a little tired : )

Hi members,

Thought I would post an update and hopefully help another member in the future,

After a number of issues the front left airbag needed replacing and this was a very easy job so if your reasonably mechanical I would fit your own. Here's where the real problem came in, I was getting continual venting from the compressor exhaust valve till the D3 hit the bump stops. On the GAP tools live values the pressure would not hold, very erratic, pressure up but the shoot down to mid 200kpa then the compressor would kick in, kept repeating the process. Then the compressor would do a large dump of air when I came to a stop and turned her off.

So I replaced the central reservoir valve block having found dessicant powder in the pressure valve. The problem remained. So I went back to the beginning of the system and removed and checked the reservoir again very easy to remove and I also checked the line to the reservoir block and this was all good.

I had just replaced the compressor with a Dunlop aftermarket so this was good also. So up to that point it was all working. I really had suspected the reservoir valve but this wasn't the problem.

So I went to the next part in the line up and removed the silencer and air filter, this is a total disaster of a job and I would not do this again I would just blow the lines in situ. The air filter is in a ridiculous location and I altered this setup slightly to give better access for future service. My air filter was in need of replacement as the sponge inside had broken down.

I changed the rear air filter for a quality K/N type, pushes over the rear air hose and you can leave it directly behind the rear left hatch for easy cleaning. Its original location up behind the rear quarter light is just plain ridiculous for access. Putting it back there is nigh on impossible.

Now I went to each valve block starting with the front which is easy to get to and work on. On closer inspection ( I have already had these out ) the very small rubber o rings had deteriorated so I changed them over. You dont need to order the sets online if your stuck somewhere you can if possible go to a decent engineering place or the like and they will most likely have the same o rings or at least the critical ones. However keeping a rebuild kit in your D3 is a smart idea. Checked the rear valve and the same , not quite as bad but on the way so I replaced the guilty o rings. I'm doing the complete rebuild on the valves now. This was the culprit, immediately the pressure was smoother on the GAP tool, the system went through a couple of cycles which I presume is to build up the reservoir pressure. Once it was at 1600/1700kpa it settled down held right of 330kpa and no more venting only the one D3 fart as its known. The ride is far better now these valves have all been rebuilt. So after all that it was some little rubber o rings with a value of a $ so if your getting some air leaks and done the overnight tests to see if its an airbag then overhaul your valves if you know they haven't been done for a while if ever. Very easy and also a cheap job , I would recommend this as part of your upkeep/servicing.

When replacing front airbag I used a quality push in connector because supporting the airbag while trying to thread the Voss connector in such a tight space is a fiddly job because you cant get enough slack on the air line to have the air bag low enough for ease of access.

Also put quality push in connectors on the rear valve block as it too is very fiddly trying to screw Voss connectors in without crossing the plastic valve body thread.

If you haven't had your inside wheel arch covers off for a while ?? then take them out.....blow your mind how much **** accumulates behind those things : ) mine must be 20 kilos lighter now with all the crap I removed.

Hope this helps some other unfortunate soul like me,

Can you elaborate on what connectors you went with instead of VOSS?

Replaced all 4 air struts at 210000km, next is front LCAs and sway bar tie rods with hd items.

Air Comp (hitachi) has had a full rebuild and alloy cap. I don't have any air suspension error codes, and car does not drop on any corner even after a week of parked up, so I think all is ok. it was however interesting to read improved ride when reading about the valve block rebuild.

Would be good to know o ring sizes all round to build a bit of an emergency kit...

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Replaced all 4 air struts at 210000km, next is front LCAs and sway bar tie rods with hd items.

Air Comp (hitachi) has had a full rebuild and alloy cap. I don't have any air suspension error codes, and car does not drop on any corner even after a week of parked up, so I think all is ok. it was however interesting to read improved ride when reading about the valve block rebuild.

Would be good to know o ring sizes all round to build a bit of an emergency kit...

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Just buy this

https://4x4airseals.com/product/land...ing-repair-kit

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Just buy this

https://4x4airseals.com/product/land...ing-repair-kit

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Mine arrived yesterday along with the drier kit and new end cap.

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Just buy this

Land Rover L322 Range Rover Discovery 3 4 R R Sport Valve Block Solenoids Oring Repair kit - 4x4 Air Seals

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Cheers DJ, will do

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Just buy this

https://4x4airseals.com/product/land...ing-repair-kit

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about $5 worth of o-rings there, some one buy the kit then replicate it.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

about $5 worth of o-rings there, some one buy the kit then replicate it.

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Oh but the joy of having every single piece correct and delivered to your door. Priceless.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Oh but the joy of having every single piece correct and delivered to your door. Priceless.

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No, not 'priceless' about $66 if my PayPal account is correct. Bit steep for some o rings, but cheaper than remote recovery. Mine are now 10yo, so cost per year $6.6 or $1.65 pet corner per year isn't too bad